Shaka Shack Burgers -- Santa Monica, CA

1701 Ocean Park Blvd. 
Santa Monica , CA 90405
310-450-5551
website

It was a gloomy Saturday, and the Hawaiian-themed Shaka Shake Burgers promised a little tropical break in an otherwise dreary day. Shaka Shack Burgers was relatively new on the Los Angeles burger scene. It was the latest offering from Chef Lisa Stalvey. Chef Stalvey had impressive credentials:

• Former Spago on Sunset head chef  
• Executive chef of Malibu Catering
• Opened Puck's Ma Maison and Granita
• Worked with Roger Verge.
• Spent time working at Schatzi, Beau Rivage, and L'Orangerie,
• Had her own spot, Bambu.  

I hoped that this remarkable resume would translate into a remarkable burger.

Parking was free in the attached lot. The process was simple: order from the menu board and pay at the register; get a beverage at the self-serve fountain; find a table and sit down; wait for the meal to arrive at the table. I ordered the eponymous double Shaka Burger, a side of Parmesan Fries, and a soda for just under 15 bucks. My order was ready within 7 minutes.

The Burger Breakdown...


The Beef: Meh. The beef was nearly characterless. Each patty was 4 ounces. The beef was grass-fed Angus. I assumed that the beef was pre-ground, pre-formed, previously frozen Chuck, because it was insipid and a little rubbery. The burger at Shaka Shack Burgers lacked any strong beefy flavors. It did carry a mild note of funk and a faint note of iron. The somewhat chewy burger patties probably came in at about 25% fat--they were on the oily side. The quality was akin to In-N-Out, but for a slightly higher price.

The Seasoning: The only thing that I could detect was pepper. That was unfortunate, because the bland beef at Shaka Shack Burgers was in dire need of a savory note or two.


The Sear: The sear on the oily patties was sufficient to crisp the edges. However, the patties were thin enough that they became convex as they cooked, and this did not allow a proper and even sear across the entire surface.


The Preparation: There was not much to discuss in terms of preparation, since it appeared that the beef arrived at Shaka Shack Burgers in the form of frozen, pre-formed discs. The burgers were cooked to a hot Medium. The grind was medium. The burgers were cooked on a gas-fired flat-top.


The Cheese: There was none...sigh. Shaka Shack Burgers served up a burger that was in desperate need of all the help that a thick slice of American cheese could have offered. The cheese would have added texture, umami, savory, and much-needed moisture to offset the oiliness.


The Bun: The bun was a sweet, soft, barely toasted version of a Hawaiian Roll. The sweetness was not matched with any savory notes, so the bun fell flat. 


The Meat To Bun Ratio: In the case of the double burger, this was just fine. 


The Toppings: The Iceberg lettuce and tomato were both ripe and fresh. The Secret Spot Sauce was a peppery and slightly mustardy version of the sweet mess that we have come to expect from In-N-Out.  


The Fries: Since the fries were crinkle cut, it seemed safe to assume that these also arrived on a truck, frozen in bags. That said, the fries were fine--they were better than the burgers at Shaka Shack Burgers. The fries were golden brown, crisp, creamy on the inside, and they were covered in finely grated Parmesan cheese. The Parmesan Fries at Shaka Shack Burgers were a winner. That was sad since the word "burgers" was in the name of the place.


The Value: 15 bucks for a something not quite as good as In-N-Out and at twice the price was a weak value.


Shaka Shack Burgers was a clear misfire on the part of chef Lisa Stalvey. It seemed that quality, delicious burgers were not in the wheelhouse of this chef and/or this establishment. You can't win 'em all.


Burger Review : Hang loose with burgers elsewhere. Shaka Shack Burgers served up an inferior and over-priced version of In-N-Out. 


Rating...3 Bites (rounded up from 2.5 Bites)

Junior's Deli -- Los Angeles, CA

2379 Westwood Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90064
310-475-5771
website

Chi Burger was in the mood for soup, and Fat Bruce Lee (no longer on a diet...sigh) and I tagged along in Chi Burger's motorized ashtray. This time Fat Bruce Lee strayed from his traditional burger. Instead he had a monstrous pastrami sandwich...more to follow. Parking was free with validation in the attached lot. I ordered the 1/2 pound, $10.95 (cheese was $.85 more...grrrr), Build-A-Burger with American cheese and lettuce and tomato on the side. Our meals arrived in about 10 minutes.

The Burger Breakdown...


The Beef: Junior's Deli served up a cheeseburger made from 100% Chuck. They proudly stated this on the menu. I did find it a little confusing that they made a point of touting the use of Chuck, but who was I to question this?  This was a two-note burger patty....beef and skank. The burger was automatically cooked to a moderately chewy Well-Done, so the plentiful collagen in the Chuck melted completely. This gave the burger the characteristic beefy flavor that we have come to expect from Chuck. The hefty funk was bordering on unpleasant. It seemed relatively clear why the burger was cooked to Well-Done. The beef was very likely past its prime. This resulted in a nearly tangy flavor--I said a little prayer for my immune system as I took my second bite. The texture was also a little off-putting. The bacteria that had been, apparently, having their way with the ground beef had worked their magic on the beef proteins to the point that the texture resembled a grainy, soft brisket.  This, coupled with the high cooking temperature, resulted in a mouth feel that was not especially burger-like. The burger was relatively juicy, and it was certainly not oily. All the fats rendered off in the cooking process.

The Seasoning: I detected only the mildest hint of salt on the exterior of the burger patty at Junior's Deli.

The Sear: Meh. Junior's Deli cooked the burger on a gas-fired grill, which was just hot enough to impart grill marks on the patty.

The Preparation: The rubbery, flat patties at Junior's Deli were probably hand-formed during morning prep, but I just didn't care enough to ask. The flavor was sub par, and this just drained me of all enthusiasm to dig deeper into the origins of the burger. The burgers were turned 3 times on the grill, and that was 2 times too many.

The Cheese: The $.85 slice of American cheese was properly melted, but it contributed nothing to the dish. The tangy funk of the burger overwhelmed any flavor from the cheese. The grainy texture of the beef masked any creaminess that the cheese may have had to offer.

The Bun: The burger bun at Junior's Deli was a big, floppy, seeded, generic burger bun. The bun was fresh. It was utterly bland and neutral in flavor. It was also very weakly toasted. As a result, the bun was a passive delivery vehicle for the burger patty.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: This was just fine.

The Toppings: The Iceberg lettuce was fresh and fine. The slice of tomato. Wow! That was the single-most revolting bite of tomato that I had ever tasted. It was out of my mouth and into my napkin almost instantly. It tasted like it had been used to wrap fish. 

The Fries: The standard, peel-off fries at Junior's Deli came from a bag, and they tasted like they came from a bag. The fries were bland and tasted nothing of the earth. The fries were unseasoned. The fries were....Meh.

The Value: At Junior's Deli, an 8-ounce cheeseburger was $11.35. Sadly, that cheeseburger was made from beef, which was past its prime. The quality just wasn't there. As a result, the value was weak.

On a side note...Chi Burger loved his tureen of Matzoh Ball Soup. Fat Bruce Lee powered through his Pastrami Sandwich with no complaints. Later he did note that he felt that his intestines were coated with Russian dressing, and that he was ready to drop a Pastrami bomb.

Burger Review : The expansive menu at Junior's Deli seemed to have something for everyone. That is, as long as one was not looking for a burger.  Pass.

Rating...2 Bites

Fuku Burger -- Hollywood, CA

1634 Cahuenga
Hollywood, CA  90028
323-464-3858
Website

Somehow, Bad JuJu convinced me that I owed him a burger. It just so happened that I was at loose ends and in possession of a shiny new Groupon for a couple of burgers at Fuku Burger. Metered parking was easy enough to find on the street. We found immediate seating at the bar. The bar at Fuku Burger featured a wide selection of beer and wine. The first thing that we noted upon entering Fuku Burger was that the whole place was decked out like a Lucky Brand Jeans commercial.  We ordered a couple of Lucky Burgers (see what I mean?) and a family-sized order of fries.....our burgers arrived in about 5 minutes.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: Fuku Burger used Premium Black Angus in the form of pre-ground Chuck from Creekstone Farms. The 6-ounce burger patty in my Lucky Burger had a fat content of 20%. The burger was very juicy. The flavor was nicely beefy with a hint of aging. There was a mild trace of minerals. The burger presented a well-balanced and firm bite. The beef itself was not spectacular, but it was satisfying. The seasonings and the ginger are what rounded out the flavor profile.

The Seasoning: Fuku Burger hit the exterior of the burger patty with just the right amount of salt to make that Chuck pop.

The Sear: Fuku Burger got a competent, salty, and crisp sear on the burger patty. The sear was delivered by a properly hot, gas-fired flat-top. The seared layer was uniform and thin. This left the interior of the burger a nice, pink Medium.

The Preparation: The thick burger patties at Fuku Burger were formed during morning prep. There was nothing rubbery about the burger. This meant that the ground Chuck, which was ground at a medium setting, was gently pressed into patties. It was not heavily manipulated.

The Cheese: Blah....Tillamook Cheddar. Seriously, what is the fascination with this useless Cheddar? On the burger, it was bland, oily, and absolutely uninteresting. Pass on the cheese.  It provided nothing but extra calories--the beef was flavorful enough.

The Bun: Fuku Burger used a Portuguese Roll from Melrose Baking Company. The bun was mildly toasted with almost no crunch. The bun was buttered, but it was not overtly oily in the hand or on the palate. The flavor was mildly sweet. The texture was tender and just chewy enough to make its presence known.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: The 6-ounce patty at Fuku Burger was perfectly matched to the Portuguese Roll.

The Toppings: The lettuce and tomato were both perfectly fresh and fine. What was really worthy of note was the salty, pickled ginger. That provided an interesting blast of umami flavor, which absolutely rounded out the flavors of the burger. The ginger did the job of the weak cheese...in a heroic fashion.

The Fries: We tried the fries with gravy and Fuku Sauce. This resembled poutine without the cheese curds. While the french fries were of the pre-cut, peel-off, par-cooked, and previously-frozen variety, the fries were fine. They were cooked to a pleasant crisp in canola oil.

The Value: A Fuku "Lucky" Burger was $9. That was a little steep for a 6-ounce Chuck burger. Still, the burger was flavorful, and it was cooked properly. All told, at full retail, the value at Fuku Burger was about average for LA.

Fuku Burger was about a block away from Stout. Fuku Burger was a world away from Stout in terms of flavor, quality, and speed of service. If you are in the area, and you are in need of a burger, then Fuku Burger would be the clear choice.

Burger Review : A darn fine and flavorful burger with a fusion twist was enjoyed at FukuBurger.





Rating...4 Bites

The Den of Hollywood -- West Hollywood, CA

8226 West Sunset Blvd
West Hollywood, CA 90046
323-656-0336
website

It was mid-Saturday afternoon, and I was at loose ends. I was on my way to FukuBurger when I noticed that The Den of Hollywood was open. I had been told about this burger by a co-worker, and this seemed like a good time to check it out. I opted for free street parking over the convenient valet. I found a seat inside and ordered one of The Den Burgers with a side of fries. The wait was about 25 minutes. This was unavoidable. I had walked in just after five other tables ordered food--the place had just opened up for the day. What made the wait bearable was the music. Shawnie, the wonderfully knowledgeable and accommodating manager was in charge of the music selection, and her tastes were eclectic and solid. I enjoyed listening to Lita Ford, Cake, The Housemartins, and Paul Simon while I waited. The Den of Hollywood had a sister restaurant--Library Bar. Library Bar is where the dough for the flat bread pizza with seasonal vegetables came from. The spicy sauce and fresh vegetables were a perfect match as an app.


The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The burger meat at The Den of Hollywood was delivered, pre-ground, by West Coast Prime Meats. This was Paso Prime, grass-fed, California-raised beef. The cuts were Chuck, Short Rib, and Brisket. The Short Rib gave the 8-ounce burger a mild note of funk. The Brisket provided the chewiness and long-grained texture...along with some fat. The Chuck rounded out the burger and provided some mild beefy notes. The burger was mild but very juicy. It was also heavy on the fat. I pegged this one at around 23% fat. It wasn't overbearing, but it was a little oilier than I would have preferred. When coupled with the buttered Portuguese Roll, I was glad that I had been running stairs earlier that day. Even so, the fats in grass-fed beef were far better than the ones found in grain-fed beef. All told, the beef in the burger at The Den of Hollywood was of high quality. The texture had a nice firmness, but the beef was not chewy in the least. Lastly, the burger did have a nice taste of char, which was reminiscent of backyard cookouts.

The Seasoning: I caught a nice taste of salt and pepper on the exterior of the burger patty.

The Sear: The sear came from a properly hot grill. The grill marks were thorough, and the cooked layer of beef was relatively thin. This indicated a high cooking temperature. The sear lacked crunch, but it did impart just enough char to add to the flavor of the burger.

The Preparation: The beef was delivered pre-ground to medium. The burger patties at The Den of Hollywood were preformed during the prep shift just before the doors opened. The 8-ounce patties were formed with gentle pressure. My burger was cooked to a perfectly juicy Med-Rare.

The Cheese: The cheese choices were Gruyere and Cheddar. I was feeling fancy, so I went with the Gruyere. This was a good choice for this burger, since this Gruyere was less nutty than most, and it melted far better. The cheese provided a welcome firmness to the bite.

The Bun: The Portuguese roll was sourced from the Extea Basque Bakery. The small bun was fluffy, and it compressed nicely when bitten. The bun was toasted on the grill with a small amount of char. It was heavily buttered. There was little crunch from the flat top griddle, but the heavy butter treatment made it a little soggy in the center. The bun was mildly sweet, but mostly neutral.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: The smallish bun held up surprisingly well to the big, juicy burger.

The Toppings: The arugula was fresh and nutty. The spicy mayo was just that....spicy mayo. It was fine for the fries.

The Fries: I went with the 50/50 combo of standard potato fries and sweet potato fries. Everything was cut in house. Both types of fries were cooked to a satisfying crunch with the peels on. The sweet potato fries were lightly battered. Both fries were tasty and properly salted.

The Value: The Den Burger at The Den of Hollywood was $11, and the happy hour-priced fries were $3. The value was average. The quality of the ingredients was high, and chef Bruce Kalman did a nice job with the ingredients and a tight menu.

Overall, The Den of Hollywood served up a very competent, but somewhat mild burger. Chef Kalman could have amped up the flavors in this burger. There was clearly a large amount of talent in the kitchen, so the tame choices baffled me.

Burger Review : A mild, but quality burger, was served up at The Den of Hollywood.

Rating...4 Bites (rounded up from 3.5 bites)