Wednesday, April 23, 2014

KGB: Kerry's Gourmet Burgers (Revisit) – Las Vegas, NV

At Harrah's

3475 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-369-5000 
website




I hadn't been to KGB at Harrah's for about three years, and a revisit was in order. Happy Meal was happy to tag along to try what I remembered being a darn fine burger.

Here's a little from the Harrah's website: "...Celebrity chef Kerry Simon opened his restaurant inside Harrah’s Las Vegas: KGB, Kerry’s Gourmet Burgers. KGB offers the ultimate Vegas burger selection with the signature Simon flair. Located in the heart of Harrah’s Las Vegas resort, KGB serves lunch and dinner. Simon, dubbed the “Rock ’n Roll Chef” by Rolling Stone magazine, created a brand of sexy restaurants with a distinct vibe. At KGB Las Vegas, Kerry Simon took inspiration from his Ultimate Burger victory on Food Network’s “Iron Chef America.“..."

We spoke with the chef and confirmed that aside from higher prices, the menu and ingredients were largely unchanged from 3 years ago. We ordered a bunch of stuff and a couple of the $14 BYB (Build Your Burger) Burgers.

While waiting for our cheeseburgers, we tried a few of the appetizers. We started with Mac and Cheese Sticks. These were breaded, deep-fried, bundles of tasty Mac and Cheese with a cheesy dipping sauce to take things from good to great.

Next, we moved on to the Buffalo Chicken Rolls. These were crisp won ton wrappers stuffed with a generous portion of perfectly seasoned, shredded Buffalo chicken. The dish was deep-fried and served with a creamy dipping sauce. Solid winner!

From there, we sampled the Fried Homemade Dill Pickles. Why? Because sometimes you just need a big-ass, deep-fried, spicy dill pickle. The pair of massive pickle halves were battered and fried. I really enjoyed this.

Finally, we tried the Iron Chef Sliders. Owner, Chef Kerry Simon, had recently won with on Iron Chef America.  The sliders were perfectly seared, funky from the beer (Shiner Bock) infusion, and just chewy enough to provide substance. The cheese was a medium Cheddar, and the bun closely resembled a King's Hawaiian Roll. This was finished with a fresh tomato slice. All told, the sliders were a great dish.

The Iron Chef  Sliders
Our burgers arrived shortly after we had plowed through the copious starters.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The burger beef at KGB was still the All Natural, 100% Angus, Myers Ranch beef blend from Premier Meat Company  The blend was the familiar 50% Chuck, 25% Ribeye, and 25% Brisket. The fat content was 20%. The burger meat was strongly beefy, tremendously juicy, and rich in texture (nearly creamy). While there was no funk from aging, there was a nice steak flavor from the premium cuts of beef in the blend. The thick, uniformly round patties were cooked to a perfect Med-Rare.

The Seasoning: The exterior of the burger patty was hit with just enough salt and pepper to bring out the best in the beef.

The Sear: Drat. The sear on this burger was weaker than on the previous visit. The burgers were cooked on a too cool grill, and it just didn't get the Maillard Reaction going. This would have been a nearly perfect burger with a good sear. This was the same shortcoming that I had observed on my previous visit to KGB.

The Preparation: The pre-formed, 8-ounce patties from Premiere Meat Company were perfectly handled. The cooking temperature was perfect, and all of the vegetables were splendid. The quality of preparation and skill in the kitchen was strong.

The Cheese: Boom! Two slices of American cheese. This was what the burger required--big bun, big meat, BIG cheese. The American cheese slices were just right, and the cheese provided the notes of salt, creaminess, and iron that served to round out the bite.

The Bun: The source of the bun shifted from the old Imperial Palace (now The Quad) bakery to the on-site bakery. The bun was a tender, nicely toasted (around the edges), sweet, moist, fresh, unseeded, standard burger bun.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: The big, thick bun was a perfect match to the big, thick, juicy burger patty.

The Toppings: The Iceberg lettuce at Kerry's Gourmet Burgers was fresh and crisp. The tomato slice was hearty, red, and ripe.

The Fries: The cheeseburgers came with a copious amount of fries. The fries were par-cooked, coated in potato flour, bagged and delivered frozen. The fries were excellent. The peel-on fries were well crisped and browned in canola oil. The fries were seasoned perfectly.

The Value: The $14 burger was $4 more than it had been less than 3 years ago. Still, the value was fine when one took into account the large size, the quality ingredients, and the amount of fries that accompanied the meal.

KGB: Kerry's Gourmet Burgers was consistent over the years. The high points remained the high points, and the low points continued to be the low points. Well...low point...that missing sear really bothered me. Happy Meal was pleased with his meal.

Burger Review : KGB at Harrah's produced a darn fine and generously portioned cheeseburger and fries for a fair price.

Rating...4 Bites

 

Friday, April 18, 2014

Buddy V's Ristorante--Las Vegas, NV

3339 Las Vegas Blvd. S.
at The Venetian
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-607-2355
website




Day 3 of the 2014 Spring Break Burger Tour took Happy Meal and me back to The Venetian to Buddy V's Ristorante. We were hoping that B&B Burgers & Beer hadn't set the burger bar too high, and those in its sphere of influence would  be able to follow suit. We spoke with the chef to gain an understanding of the burger. We decided to split the Angus Burger and a couple of sides.

The Calamari was just fantastic. It was combined with battered lemon slivers and sliced  pickle banana peppers. The tart notes combined with the savory of the spices on the generous portion worked perfectly. The sundried tomato aioli was a great touch.

The Grandma's Meatballs were also excellent. These were a combination of pork, beef, and veal. The meatballs were exactly what you always thought meatballs should be but could never quite attain--the springiness was sublime. These were the gold standard of meatballs. They were served on a bed of savory tomato ragu. I would go back for the meatballs alone.

Here it comes.....the Garlic Bread. The Garlic Bread was out of control. This was a decadent combination of Mozzarella, pesto, and soft Italian bread....all fried until the bread was crisp and the inside was moist and tender. This was all served on a bed of savory stewed tomatoes. This was a knife and fork affair, and even Happy Meal did not bristle at the concept. This was the finest and most subtle garlic bread that I have ever tried. It was a grilled cheese served in the style of fine dining with ingredients to match.

As we ate the amazing appetizers, we watched the tight cooperation and communication between the staff in the large, immaculate, and open kitchen. Our burger arrived in about 15 minutes.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The chef shared with me that the 8-ounce patty was a combination of equal parts Brisket, Short Rib, and Chuck. This was all Certified Premium Black Angus beef from Creekstone Farms in Kansas (where I was born and raised). The fat content came in at about 20% from the supplier who ground and blended the beef for Buddy V's Ristorante. The beef was strongly beefy in flavor, and there was a low note of minerality. There was no funk from aging. The beef was cooked past the requested Med-Rare, but we didn't feel like busting stones over that. The result was a juicy burger with a bit of chewiness. The upside was the fully denaturation of the collagen, which yielded a the strong beef flavors. Additionally, there was a nice note carbon from the grill.

The Seasoning: There was a mild dusting of salt on the exterior of the burger patty.

The Sear: The sear on the Buddy V's Ristorante burger was great. The sear was dark, deep, and flavorful. The sear was a winner and a fair trade for the higher than requested cooking temperature. I love a good sear.

The Preparation: The 8-ounce burger patties were formed to order. The thick patties were handled gently, and this made the burger as tender as it could be. The burgers were seared on a gas-fired grill. The quality of the burger and the other dishes that we sampled showed a strong level of talent in the kitchen.

The Cheese: The Angus Burger was served with a thick slab of mild, buttery, springy, melted Provolone. The Provolone worked well to contribute moisture and a bit of creaminess to the bite.

The Bun: Buddy V's Ristorante sourced the burger bun from Amato Bakery. This was the same bakery that Todd English's P.U.B. sourced their bun from. The Brioche bun was well-toasted, sweet, tender, and yeasty. The bun provided crunch around the edges. The Brioche was a little cakey in its texture, and this complemented the rich Provolone.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: This was spot on.

The Fries: The "Tuscan" fries were delivered peel-on, par-cooked, and frozen. The fries were nicely crisped in canola oil to a golden brown. The crisp and flavorful fries were finished with shredded Parmesan cheese, an appropriate amount of salt, and a generous dusting of Italian herbs.

The Toppings: The tomato aioli was house-made and flavorful. The Bibb lettuce was crisp and fresh. The tomato slice was ripe, juicy, and flavorful.

The Value:  $15 for a 1/2 pound burger with a mountain of fries was pretty much the going rate on the Las Vegas Strip. Buddy V's ingredients warranted the price.

Buddy V's Ristorante served up some amazing Italian dishes and a really tasty and competent cheeseburger.

Burger Review : A darn good burger at a fair price.

Rating...4 Bites

Thursday, April 17, 2014

B&B Burger & Beer--Las Vegas, NV

3355 Las Vegas Blvd S
at The Venetian
Las Vegas, NV 89101
702-414-2220
website



Happy Meal and I were on our second day of our 2014 Spring Break Burger tour. We selected B&B Burger & Beer at The Venetian as our second burger du jour. I had read all sorts of mixed reviews on this place, and I felt that this sort of passion and confusion warranted a closer look. B&B Burger & Beer took over the short-lived Rattlecan space, and it had been open for about 6 months at the time of this review. Here's an excerpt from the B&B Burger & Beer website:  "...B&B Burger & Beer is a bright, casual restaurant in the Venetian Hotel Casino. The space boasts a 2,000 square-foot, 75-seat outdoor patio facing Las Vegas Boulevard. In true Batali & Bastianich form, the atmosphere is trumped only by consistently delicious food. To that end, the menu at B&B Burger features local ingredients including dry-aged American beef for burgers, served on a perfectly charred bun, plus signature sides, robust salads, and standout shakes. The beer-driven beverage menu spotlights beers from Las Vegas and other local craft breweries..."

Happy Meal and I spoke with the Chef (Jon Littleton) who walked us through the ingredients, sourcing, and prep. Chef Littleton was warm, engaging, and highly informative. He clearly liked to work clean, since his chef's jacket was spotless--this spoke well of the kitchen in general. Our server, Daniel, treated our burger experience like fine dining, and his knowledge of the menu was stellar. All too often, I run across surly servers that show obvious annoyance when I try to get the details required to write a thorough review. Daniel was a cut above.

We ordered The Drive-Thru ($9) for Happy Meal, and I requested The Bar Burger - Your Way ($12 with cheese). I know this is skipping ahead, but we didn't raise an eyebrow at the prices. The ingredients were of such high quality and the preparation so meticulous, that the cost seemed low. Our burgers were ready in about 12 minutes. As we waited, we sampled the Pickles and the Unfried Mozzarella. 

The Pickles were deep fried, house-made, bread and butter pickles. These can be hit or miss, but at B&B Burger & Beer, the batter was made with vodka. When cooking, the alcohol evaporated, and this took away just enough liquid to keep the chips from becoming soggy with pickle brine. The chips were dusted with a savory seasoning to complement the sweet and sour within. The pickles were served with a very subtle, house-made, garlic aioli. This was a great starter. Happy Meal and I both loved this.

The Unfried Mozzarella was B&B Burger & Beer's take on fried cheese sticks. This was
Stracciatella on a bed of spicy tomato sauce. The dish was ridiculously good. The cheese (think Burrata) was buttery, delicate, warm, and soft. This coupled with the freshly toasted crostinis and the spicy sauce, and we had an appetizer worthy of fighting over (and we did). Happy Meal was quoted as saying, "You can't have enough of this." He was right.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: B&B Burger & Beer was a Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich venture. They had other jointly owned establishments in town, so this provided B&B with enhanced access to world-class ingredients. The beef was a prime example. The beef blend (50% Brisket and 50% Chuck) was ground and blended fresh daily onsite from hand-selected sides of beef from Niman Ranch. The beef was broken down, ground, and blended by the on-site butcher. Yes, these guys had a guy whose job was to select  the sides of beef for the restaurants. Niman Ranch beef is 100% Angus, vegetarian diet, and no hormone/antibiotic free. The burgers came out at 6 ounces each. The Drive Thru was two 3-ounce patties, and my burger was a single 6-ounce patty. The beef was splendid. The flavor hit us in a rush of sear, beef, salt and pepper, complex mineral notes, and a little blood. The texture was firm and then creamy. The burger patty was perfectly juicy with no trace of oiliness. The beef resembled the Stracciatella in its complexity and delicate texture, but the beef brought a sledgehammer of flavor to the palate. This was one of those bites that made me smile and slow down as I savored eat bite. The Drive-Thru Burger was very similar to my Bar Burger, except that burger had twice the sear and twice the cheese...twice the sear and twice the cheese in one bite was the culinary equivalent of a menage a trios. I will be getting that burger on my next visit. The beef was perfect.

The Seasoning: Salt and pepper and lots of it. The kitchen nailed the burgers with a good dose of seasoning...just the right amount. This was perfect. The seasoning unlocked the flavors of the high-quality beef and made it sparkle.

The Sear: Get out your crying towels...the sear was perfection. The sear wrapped the Med Rare interior in a thin and uniform shell of crisp, dark, chewy, savory Maillard Reaction magnificence. The sear was perfect. This was where I envied Happy Meal's choice of the Drive-Thru burger. His double patty burger had 4 layers of sear, and my burger had only 2. I wanted to do a lap through the kitchen and high five everyone.

The Preparation: The kitchen staff at B&B Burger & Beer took magnificent ingredients and prepared them with competence and near reverence. This great care came through in every bite. Our burgers were seared on a remarkably hot, gas-fired flat-top. The burger patties came to us a perfect Med-Rare.

The Cheese: There were numerous cheese choices: America, Swiss, Fontina, Goat, Gorgonzola, Pepper Jack, Provolone, and Robiola--I suppose that one could even request Stracciatella. I went with the usual American. The cheese was perfectly melted, and in sufficient quantity to make itself known throughout the bite. Savory, gooey, and just plain satisfying. This was more the case in the Drive-Thru burger, which had thinner patties.

The Bun: B&B Burger & Beer sourced their buns from one of my Las Vegas favorites, Bon Breads Bakery. I opted for the potato bun, which was......perfect. This was a standard, non-seeded, moderately toasted bun. It was savory, soft, and moist. The burger bun was just chewy enough at the beginning and then finished with a creaminess to mirror the texture of the beef. There was a bit of crispness around the edges to complement the epic sear. The sesame seeded bun on the Drive-Thru burger was equally good. It provided a bit more sweetness, and this worked with the double doses of sear and seasoning.
The Drive-Thru Burger

The Meat To Bun Ratio: PERFECT

The Toppings: Chef Littleton was a stickler for fresh produce and freshness in general. He spoke to me of the evils of oxidation, and I firmly agreed. This passion came though in the veg that accompanied the burgers. The tomato slice was bold, ripe, and full-flavored. The Bibb lettuce was fresh, crisp, sweet, and unblemished.

The Rings: Wow! This was the same batter that worked so well in the fried pickle dish. The batter worked equally well on the perfectly cooked onion rings. The tower of rings came with a tomato aioli (also house-made), and this was a rich and welcome alternative to ketchup. The brightness of ketchup can serve to mute other flavors. The rings were perfectly crisp and beautifully seasoned.

The Shake: The Nutella shake was made with vanilla gelato, Nutella, and candied hazelnuts. The shake was obscenely good. Happy Meal declared that if this shake was thrown over the side of a building, he would jump over to save it or at least enjoy it on the way down.

The Value: The prices were low in contrast to the amazing quality of ingredients and preparation. There was absolutely nothing to take issue with throughout the entire meal. I found myself wondering if they were charging enough.

At the time of this posting, B&B Burger & Beer was on my list of top burgers in the country. It edged out the burgers at BurGR on the merit of the sear. This burger was on par with the spectacular cheeseburger at The Brindle Room in NYC. I found myself already missing the burger as I took my last few bites. I am fortunate to live close enough to Las Vegas to repeat this experience. 

Burger Review : This was the best burger in Las Vegas. One the best cheeseburgers in the US. This burger made my short list, and it should make every critic's top 10 list. Fine dining on a bun...perfection.

Rating....5 Glorious Bites

Joe Bastianich
Joe Bastianich
Joe Bastianich

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