Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Summer Break Visit Roundup -- Las Vegas, NV

Happy Meal and I dropped by Las Vegas after the Kansas visit to check in with The Marinater (now a Las Vegas resident) and to meet up with the Pretty Lady Veterinarian.

We went to B&B Burger & Beer twice (at The Venetian). Chef Jon Littleton is one of my favorite burger chefs, and the burgers are just a little better when he is running the kitchen. Both  The Marinater and the Pretty Lady Veterinarian were duly BLOWN AWAY by the crazy goodness of the Drive Thru Burger. I can't stress enough how completely excellent this burger has been on all three visits. It was simply perfect, and I am grateful that it is far away, or I would be the next contestant on The Biggest Loser.

Happy Meal and I also stopped by the Broadway Burger Bar & Grill at NY NY for a recheck on the cheeseburgers there. On this visit, the burgers were merely competent but nothing special--just average. The tomato slices were surprisingly bland and mealy (shameful considering it was the height of Summer).

This is off topic, but the Croissant Donuts at America Donuts (in NY NY Hotel and Casino) were stunningly good. We could see why New Yorkers queue up for these.


Monday, August 4, 2014

Wabash Bar & Grill -- Manhattan, KS

1116 Moro Street
Manhattan, KS 66502
785-320-6080







Happy Meal and I were on a pilgrimage to my hometown of Manhattan, KS. Nothing like wrecking a kid's Summer break by taking him to look at cattle and corn. That said, a college buddy of mine had recently opened a restaurant, and he had a selection (11) of ambitious burgers on the menu. My friend, Dave Bollman, is a mechanical engineer, so I was looking forward to his precise take on the American classic. The genesis of Wabash Bar & Grill was Dave's quest for a truly great cheeseburger. He had been fruitlessly searching and sampling for several years when a friend suggested that Dave try his favorite burger. Dave sampled the burger and rated it a 6 out of 10. The friend, Jerald Creed, was offended, but Dave invited him to his home and prepared his personal burger. This is where the collaboration was born, and the two opened Wabash Bar & Grill together. With all of that said, did the cheeseburger live up to the high expectations? Yes, it did. It was as good as I had hoped and better than I had anticipated. By coincidence we sampled the burger on the one-year anniversary of the opening of the restaurant.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: Quality beef is where it starts with a cheeseburger. In the case of Wabash Bar & Grill, the beef was locally sourced from Munson Premium Angus Beef. The beef supplier was less than 20 miles from the restaurant, and the beef was locally raised. While the blend was proprietary, it tasted and felt like a blend of Brisket, Sirloin, and a bit of Chuck, The beef was dry aged for 14 days, which lent a pleasant, but not overbearing, hint of funk to every bite. The beef was richly beefy with a strong presence of iron and complex steak flavors. The 8-ounce patty was perfectly juicy. It delivered a savory rush of wet awesomeness with each bite. The texture of the Med-Rare burger was lush and dense while presenting just the right amount of chewy resistance. The grind was Medium-Fine, which contributed to the luxuriousness of the bite. The fat content was a perfect 20%. The quality of the beef was simply exemplary and as good as any of the best burgers that I have sampled. Getting beef that close to the source was clearly working in favor of Wabash Bar & Grill. Happy Meal inhaled his burger. I was astonished to get a cheeseburger of such a high quality in such a small town.

The Seasoning: Salt and pepper were applied liberally, and in perfect proportion, to the exterior of the thick, pub-style burger patty.

The Sear: The beef was very juicy, and this resulted in a sear that was less than epic. Still, the sear provided crispness and a nice shift in texture. The flat top was hot enough as evidenced by the thin layer of Well-Done beef enveloping the remainder of the patty. The beef was so flavorful and well-seasoned that a crisp sear was not missed or even needed.

The Preparation: There was a precise level of care, which was apparent in everything about the burger. The handling, the cooking temperature, and the presentation all suggested that great care was given to detail and the kitchen maintained high standards.


The Cheese: Wabash Bar & Grill offered a nice variety of cheeses, but Happy Meal and I stuck with American. The cheese was gooey, savory, and served to lend a creaminess to the already decadent bite.  

The Bun: The bun was a proprietary brioche-esque affair. It was moderately yeasty and just a little savory. The bun was otherwise relatively invisible, and it got out of the way to let the spectacular beef be the star of the show. The bun was nicely toasted, and it lent a bit of crispness to the edge bites.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: Flawless.

The Toppings and Sides: I passed on toppings for my review burger, but I did try the house-made beans. These were a lovely combination of bacon and onion with sweet and smokey flavors. The beans were perfectly flavorful. I happen to really enjoy beans, and I found these to be exceptional. Happy Meal ordered the Mac and Cheese, and I managed to wrestle a single bite...it was terrific.

The Fries: The fries were nice, peel-on, standard-cut fries. They were earthy, crisp, well-browned, and perfectly seasoned. They were cooked in properly hot canola oil. The centers were creamy, which suggested that the fries at Wabash Bar & Grill were par-cooked.

The Skillet Brownie: Happy Meal pretty much fell in love with his dessert. It was a homemade brownie paired with local ice cream and house-made chocolate sauce. What?  Yes, they made their own chocolate syrup. It was a gooey delight, and it was so good that the ordinarily chatty Happy Meal went completely silent on me.

The Ranch Burger: At the end of the meal, Dave came out with his favorite burger and periodic special--The Ranch Burger--and we split that.  This was the same patty and bun but with a host of toppings: thinly sliced jalapeno, grilled tomato, caramelized onion, ranch  dressing, Provolone cheese, a green that seemed to be a combination of Romaine Lettuce and Curly Endive. This was a spectacularly complex and wet mouthful. I was grateful that I let my burger rest. Frankly, you should always let a burger rest a bit. 

The Value: $8.99 for a half pound of insanely good beef prepared meticulously and with passion was an amazing value. The burger at Wabash Bar & Grill vaulted into my top five list within 3 bites.

I walked in hoping that my friend would deliver a burger that I would enjoy enough to deliver a bit of honest praise. I walked out stunned by the fact that a world-class burger was being offered to an audience that probably lacked the experience to understand their remarkable good fortune.
I don't plan on returning to Kansas anytime soon, but I am glad to know that there is a remarkable burger waiting for me when I show up.

Burger Review : Are you kidding?  If you are within 100 miles of Manhattan, KS, get yourself to Wabash Bar & Grill and sample one of the best burgers in the country in a really unlikely setting. The burgers are a non-fussy result of endless experimentation to achieve a superb level of flavor and quality.

Rating...5 Bites

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

KGB: Kerry's Gourmet Burgers (Revisit) – Las Vegas, NV

At Harrah's

3475 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-369-5000 
website




I hadn't been to KGB at Harrah's for about three years, and a revisit was in order. Happy Meal was happy to tag along to try what I remembered being a darn fine burger.

Here's a little from the Harrah's website: "...Celebrity chef Kerry Simon opened his restaurant inside Harrah’s Las Vegas: KGB, Kerry’s Gourmet Burgers. KGB offers the ultimate Vegas burger selection with the signature Simon flair. Located in the heart of Harrah’s Las Vegas resort, KGB serves lunch and dinner. Simon, dubbed the “Rock ’n Roll Chef” by Rolling Stone magazine, created a brand of sexy restaurants with a distinct vibe. At KGB Las Vegas, Kerry Simon took inspiration from his Ultimate Burger victory on Food Network’s “Iron Chef America.“..."

We spoke with the chef and confirmed that aside from higher prices, the menu and ingredients were largely unchanged from 3 years ago. We ordered a bunch of stuff and a couple of the $14 BYB (Build Your Burger) Burgers.

While waiting for our cheeseburgers, we tried a few of the appetizers. We started with Mac and Cheese Sticks. These were breaded, deep-fried, bundles of tasty Mac and Cheese with a cheesy dipping sauce to take things from good to great.

Next, we moved on to the Buffalo Chicken Rolls. These were crisp won ton wrappers stuffed with a generous portion of perfectly seasoned, shredded Buffalo chicken. The dish was deep-fried and served with a creamy dipping sauce. Solid winner!

From there, we sampled the Fried Homemade Dill Pickles. Why? Because sometimes you just need a big-ass, deep-fried, spicy dill pickle. The pair of massive pickle halves were battered and fried. I really enjoyed this.

Finally, we tried the Iron Chef Sliders. Owner, Chef Kerry Simon, had recently won with on Iron Chef America.  The sliders were perfectly seared, funky from the beer (Shiner Bock) infusion, and just chewy enough to provide substance. The cheese was a medium Cheddar, and the bun closely resembled a King's Hawaiian Roll. This was finished with a fresh tomato slice. All told, the sliders were a great dish.

The Iron Chef  Sliders
Our burgers arrived shortly after we had plowed through the copious starters.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The burger beef at KGB was still the All Natural, 100% Angus, Myers Ranch beef blend from Premier Meat Company  The blend was the familiar 50% Chuck, 25% Ribeye, and 25% Brisket. The fat content was 20%. The burger meat was strongly beefy, tremendously juicy, and rich in texture (nearly creamy). While there was no funk from aging, there was a nice steak flavor from the premium cuts of beef in the blend. The thick, uniformly round patties were cooked to a perfect Med-Rare.

The Seasoning: The exterior of the burger patty was hit with just enough salt and pepper to bring out the best in the beef.

The Sear: Drat. The sear on this burger was weaker than on the previous visit. The burgers were cooked on a too cool grill, and it just didn't get the Maillard Reaction going. This would have been a nearly perfect burger with a good sear. This was the same shortcoming that I had observed on my previous visit to KGB.

The Preparation: The pre-formed, 8-ounce patties from Premiere Meat Company were perfectly handled. The cooking temperature was perfect, and all of the vegetables were splendid. The quality of preparation and skill in the kitchen was strong.

The Cheese: Boom! Two slices of American cheese. This was what the burger required--big bun, big meat, BIG cheese. The American cheese slices were just right, and the cheese provided the notes of salt, creaminess, and iron that served to round out the bite.

The Bun: The source of the bun shifted from the old Imperial Palace (now The Quad) bakery to the on-site bakery. The bun was a tender, nicely toasted (around the edges), sweet, moist, fresh, unseeded, standard burger bun.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: The big, thick bun was a perfect match to the big, thick, juicy burger patty.

The Toppings: The Iceberg lettuce at Kerry's Gourmet Burgers was fresh and crisp. The tomato slice was hearty, red, and ripe.

The Fries: The cheeseburgers came with a copious amount of fries. The fries were par-cooked, coated in potato flour, bagged and delivered frozen. The fries were excellent. The peel-on fries were well crisped and browned in canola oil. The fries were seasoned perfectly.

The Value: The $14 burger was $4 more than it had been less than 3 years ago. Still, the value was fine when one took into account the large size, the quality ingredients, and the amount of fries that accompanied the meal.

KGB: Kerry's Gourmet Burgers was consistent over the years. The high points remained the high points, and the low points continued to be the low points. Well...low point...that missing sear really bothered me. Happy Meal was pleased with his meal.

Burger Review : KGB at Harrah's produced a darn fine and generously portioned cheeseburger and fries for a fair price.

Rating...4 Bites

 

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