Thursday, December 18, 2014

Seoul Sausage Company--Los Angeles, CA

11313 Mississippi Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90025
310-477-7739
website


Seoul Sausage Company had recently won their season of The Great Food Truck Race (Season 3). It had also gotten a bit of attention for the Korean-style burgers. Happy Meal was a little reluctant to get out of his burger comfort zone, but I managed to charm him into tagging along. The "Little Osaka" location was just off of Sawtelle, and it had an abundance of free parking on the adjacent side streets.

We ordered a couple of the KBBQ Burgers ($7-beef), a soda, and a Spam Musubi Ball (fun). Seating was a challenge--6 seats at the counter and a bit of standing room in front. The "gentleman" seated next to me had an odd sense of entitlement regarding the shared space, and his resultant passive-aggressive jockeying was fun to watch and directly experience. Some folks just have a tough time with concept of sharing. Our burgers were ready at the counter in about 10 minutes.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: Seoul Sausage Company served up a 1/3 pound patty composed of about 4 parts marinated Short Rib, 1 part Chuck and a fair amount of green onion. The fat content was somewhere between 20-25 percent. The bite was juicy, and that was a little surprising considering I had observed the cook pressing some of the juice out of my burger on the smokey grill. Aside from being juicy, the thick, irregular, hand-formed patty had a firm bite and a mouth feel of tender steak. Keep in mind that this was a Galbi burger. The flavor was all garlic, heat, and sweetness. The Short Rib's complexity and the beefy notes of the Chuck were dominated by the Galbi marinade so much that any flavor contribution from the beef was imperceptible.

The Sear:  Heck yes!  The sear on the burgers at Seoul Sausage Company was crisp and dark. The fat and sugar content of the burger coupled with the high heat of the gas-fired grill created a bacon-like crust on the beef, and this was just right. The level of sear worked especially well with the heavily seasoned beef to produce something akin to a crisp sausage patty.

The Seasoning: The interior of the burger was composed of Galbi marinated beef. There was no seasoning applied to the exterior--it would have been redundant overkill.

The Preparation: The juicy burger patties were hand-formed just before they were placed on the intensely hot, cast-iron grates of the gas-fired grill. The beef was scarcely handled, and that resulted in a tender bite. The beef was marinated, ground, and blended on site. The burgers were cooked to a juicy Med-Rare. The burgers were flipped once, which was correct and delivered a thorough sear.

The Cheese: The was no cheese of the burgers at Seoul Sausage Company. There was a creamy jalapeno aioli, and I'll get to that in a moment.

The Bun: The bun was properly toasted and quite neutral. The soft, fresh bun had one job....keep the fingers clean while delivering the seasoned beef to my mouth. The bun did its job without making a big deal about it. Sort of what you'd like to see out of Joe Biden.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: Perfect.

The Toppings: Our burgers came out dressed with thin strips of marinated, sweet and tangy,  red onion and a spicy, garlicky, jalapeno aioli. These toppings nicely complemented the sweetness of the Galbi beef. Again, this was a burger that didn't not taste like beef. It was all seasonings and toppings. This was not a bad thing, just not a burger thing.

The Sides: I would love to go on and on about the Spam Musubi Ball, but Happy Meal ate the whole thing before I could get a bite. He said it was great, and he really like the macaroni, which was blended into it.

The Value: It was a darn good Korean beef sandwich. The quality of the ingredients were in line with the pricing.

I wouldn't recommend Seoul Sausage Company to burger lovers, since the dish was really Galbi Beef in the shape of a burger patty and served on a bun for the sake of convenience and convention. I would recommend the sandwich to anyone that appreciates well executed takes on Korean classic dishes. At the time of this review, Seoul Sausage Company was preparing to launch a second food truck and a second location in downtown Los Angeles.

Burger Review : Seoul Sausage Company is not a burger restaurant, and they did not serve up a traditional burger. What they did serve up was a well-executed and strongly flavored interpretation of Galbi Beef.

Rating...3 Bites (not an average dish, but not really a burger)

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

BareBurger Is Coming To Santa Monica, CA

2732 Main Street
Santa Monica, CA 90405

I was bummed when The Omelette Parlor had closed late last year. It had long been one of my favorites.

I was delighted when I walked past the shuttered establishment to discover that BareBurger had plans to take over the space. I love the holidays. Also, I loved the food at BareBurger in NYC, and I hope it is just as good in Santa Monica. Spring of 2015 is the projected open time frame.




Sunday, November 30, 2014

The Melt -- Hollywood, CA

6290 Sunset Blvd,
Hollywood, CA 90028
(213) 344-4906
website

The Original Burger

The good people of The Melt were generous enough to invite me to the relaunch/prelaunch of the Hollywood location. Metered street parking was a breeze to find. The setup at The Melt was the standard order and pay at the counter. My host, Jenna, was a trove of useful information about both the food and the organization. She set me up with a broad sampling of The Melt's burger and sides fare. I noted that the wait times for food were in the range of 5 minutes, and this was impressive considering that the staff was working in a revamped kitchen with a revised/expanded menu. The Hollywood location boasted high-quality sodas and a nice selection of beers and wines--mostly local offerings.


Jonathon Kaplan, the founder of The Melt also founded Pure Digital Technologies, the good folks that brought low-cost, high-quality, video capture to the masses (Flip Camera). The Melt was based on a similar philosophy...take gourmet ingredients and package them for consumers at a reasonable price in a comfortable format.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The Melt was tight-lipped about the source, cuts, etc. I was informed that the beef was a custom blend of 90% Angus/10% Waygu. It seemed a fair guess that they went with one of the locally available, free-range, grass-fed, hormone-free ranches like Myer, Estancia, or Niman. The fat content came in at about 20%, and the oil coated my lips without creating a greasy mouth feel. The 4-ounce patty had a firm but not chewy texture. Based on the complexity of the flavors and texture, I guessed that the burger patty was predominantly Sirloin with some Chuck and Short Rib to round things out. The texture resembled coarsely ground steak, and the flavor followed suit. The beef was juicy, and it boasted strong beef notes along with mineral notes. The faint taste of complex funkiness likely came from Short Rib. The beef was a solid winner.


The Seasoning: The exterior of the irregular, hand-formed patty was seasoned with just the right amount of salt and pepper to accentuate the strong flavors of the juicy beef.

The Sear: The Melt applied a deep, rich sear to both sides of the burger. This was accomplished via a gas-fired flat-top.

The Preparation: The Melt took delivery of their beef in a ground and pre-blended state. The kitchen staff formed the 1/4 pound burger patties by hand during the prep cycle. The beef was not over-manipulated, and this resulted in the firm yet yielding bite. Burgers were cooked to the house default of Medium.

The Cheese: I tried a variety of burgers with a variety of cheeses. The Original came with Aged Cheddar....two slices of Aged Cheddar...each bonded to one of the halves of the bun rather than the burger. Smart! This juice-proofed the bun. The cheese itself was good. Salty and just a little gooey. It is important to note that I tried the burgers at The Melt in the way prescribed by the chef. That meant that the burgers were lent a fair amount of moisture and texture by the various toppings.

The Double Bacon BBQ Burger
The Bun: The Original's potato bun was savory with a cake-like consistency. This made perfect sense when combined with the lettuce, tomato, and sweetish Melt sauce. The high-domed bun was properly toasted. Again, I sampled all of the burgers fully topped, so the added ingredients imparted a lot of moisture to the bite. A meat/bun/cheese only burger would have probably been dominated by the bun.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: In the case of all of the fully topped burgers sampled, the meat to bun ratio was spot on.

The Toppings: The menu was designed by Chef Laurie Fulmer. Chef Fulmer took a very thoughtful and precise approach to her burger-craft and beyond.
  • Original ($4.95)--Fresh Iceberg lettuce...ripe, local tomato slice...savory/sweet Melt sauce.
  • Mission($5.95)--House-charred Jalapeno pepper slices...fresh, rich Avocado slices...house-pickled red onion...Harissa ketchup.
  • Double Bacon BBQ($6.95)--Crisp, smokey bacon (2 slices)...grilled onions...ripe, local tomato slice...BBQ sauce.  I loved this burger. Crunchy, beefy, savory, sweet--I would go back for that one.
  • The 'Shroom Chicken Melt
  • 'Shroom (Chicken Breast)--Moist, seared chicken breast...creamy Fontina cheese, wilted spinach leaves...house-pickled, red onions.
There were no bad choices in terms of the combinations. Each burger delivered a nice balance of flavors and textures.

The Fries: The Melt took delivery of par-cooked, bagged, and frozen fries. The peel-off, standard cut fries were properly crisped in canola oil and seasoned with the proprietary blend that went on the grilled cheese sandwiches for which the restaurant was famous. The fries remained crisp as they cooled. More importantly, the fries were delicious. The Well Dressed fries were well beyond delicious. The fries were covered in a mixture of Aged White Cheddar, Fontina, and Monterey Jack cheeses, crumbled bacon, and crispy onions. These were simply ridiculous and difficult to push back from.

The Mac And Cheese: I sampled a version called Trio. This was perfectly al dente Cellentani mixed with a savory blend of Aged Cheddar, Fontina, and Monterey Jack cheeses with a bit of crispy onion. This was perfectly delicious and difficult to stop eating.

The S'more: Good heavens, the S'more! This was an unreasonably tasty mess. Salted butter was applied to thinly sliced bread. This bread then sandwiched layers of French marshmallows, Godiva chocolate, and something resembling a caramel syrup. The whole works was seared to toasty, melty, gooey, sweet, and salty perfection. It was like the world's best version of Nutella. So good!

The Value: The Melt served up well-considered, artfully prepared, and high-quality burgers for a very reasonable price. The value was great.

The Melt served up chef-inspired cheeseburgers prepared with care, skill, and attention to the way that flavors work on the palate. The fries were terrific, and the S'more stole the show. The Sunset Strip boasts a fair number of burger restaurants...some good and some not so good. The Melt has firmly established itself among the best in the area.

Burger Review : Great burgers with the perfect amount and combinations of toppings at a very reasonable price. The Melt served up one of the best cheeseburgers on the Sunset Strip.

Rating...5 Bites (rounded up from 4.5 Bites)


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