Thursday, December 18, 2014

Seoul Sausage Company--Los Angeles, CA

11313 Mississippi Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90025
310-477-7739
website


Seoul Sausage Company had recently won their season of The Great Food Truck Race (Season 3). It had also gotten a bit of attention for the Korean-style burgers. Happy Meal was a little reluctant to get out of his burger comfort zone, but I managed to charm him into tagging along. The "Little Osaka" location was just off of Sawtelle, and it had an abundance of free parking on the adjacent side streets.

We ordered a couple of the KBBQ Burgers ($7-beef), a soda, and a Spam Musubi Ball (fun). Seating was a challenge--6 seats at the counter and a bit of standing room in front. The "gentleman" seated next to me had an odd sense of entitlement regarding the shared space, and his resultant passive-aggressive jockeying was fun to watch and directly experience. Some folks just have a tough time with concept of sharing. Our burgers were ready at the counter in about 10 minutes.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: Seoul Sausage Company served up a 1/3 pound patty composed of about 4 parts marinated Short Rib, 1 part Chuck and a fair amount of green onion. The fat content was somewhere between 20-25 percent. The bite was juicy, and that was a little surprising considering I had observed the cook pressing some of the juice out of my burger on the smokey grill. Aside from being juicy, the thick, irregular, hand-formed patty had a firm bite and a mouth feel of tender steak. Keep in mind that this was a Galbi burger. The flavor was all garlic, heat, and sweetness. The Short Rib's complexity and the beefy notes of the Chuck were dominated by the Galbi marinade so much that any flavor contribution from the beef was imperceptible.

The Sear:  Heck yes!  The sear on the burgers at Seoul Sausage Company was crisp and dark. The fat and sugar content of the burger coupled with the high heat of the gas-fired grill created a bacon-like crust on the beef, and this was just right. The level of sear worked especially well with the heavily seasoned beef to produce something akin to a crisp sausage patty.

The Seasoning: The interior of the burger was composed of Galbi marinated beef. There was no seasoning applied to the exterior--it would have been redundant overkill.

The Preparation: The juicy burger patties were hand-formed just before they were placed on the intensely hot, cast-iron grates of the gas-fired grill. The beef was scarcely handled, and that resulted in a tender bite. The beef was marinated, ground, and blended on site. The burgers were cooked to a juicy Med-Rare. The burgers were flipped once, which was correct and delivered a thorough sear.

The Cheese: The was no cheese of the burgers at Seoul Sausage Company. There was a creamy jalapeno aioli, and I'll get to that in a moment.

The Bun: The bun was properly toasted and quite neutral. The soft, fresh bun had one job....keep the fingers clean while delivering the seasoned beef to my mouth. The bun did its job without making a big deal about it. Sort of what you'd like to see out of Joe Biden.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: Perfect.

The Toppings: Our burgers came out dressed with thin strips of marinated, sweet and tangy,  red onion and a spicy, garlicky, jalapeno aioli. These toppings nicely complemented the sweetness of the Galbi beef. Again, this was a burger that didn't not taste like beef. It was all seasonings and toppings. This was not a bad thing, just not a burger thing.

The Sides: I would love to go on and on about the Spam Musubi Ball, but Happy Meal ate the whole thing before I could get a bite. He said it was great, and he really like the macaroni, which was blended into it.

The Value: It was a darn good Korean beef sandwich. The quality of the ingredients were in line with the pricing.

I wouldn't recommend Seoul Sausage Company to burger lovers, since the dish was really Galbi Beef in the shape of a burger patty and served on a bun for the sake of convenience and convention. I would recommend the sandwich to anyone that appreciates well executed takes on Korean classic dishes. At the time of this review, Seoul Sausage Company was preparing to launch a second food truck and a second location in downtown Los Angeles.

Burger Review : Seoul Sausage Company is not a burger restaurant, and they did not serve up a traditional burger. What they did serve up was a well-executed and strongly flavored interpretation of Galbi Beef.

Rating...3 Bites (not an average dish, but not really a burger)

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

BareBurger Is Coming To Santa Monica, CA

2732 Main Street
Santa Monica, CA 90405

I was bummed when The Omelette Parlor had closed late last year. It had long been one of my favorites.

I was delighted when I walked past the shuttered establishment to discover that BareBurger had plans to take over the space. I love the holidays. Also, I loved the food at BareBurger in NYC, and I hope it is just as good in Santa Monica. Spring of 2015 is the projected open time frame.




Sunday, November 30, 2014

The Melt -- Hollywood, CA

6290 Sunset Blvd,
Hollywood, CA 90028
(213) 344-4906
website

The Original Burger

The good people of The Melt were generous enough to invite me to the relaunch/prelaunch of the Hollywood location. Metered street parking was a breeze to find. The setup at The Melt was the standard order and pay at the counter. My host, Jenna, was a trove of useful information about both the food and the organization. She set me up with a broad sampling of The Melt's burger and sides fare. I noted that the wait times for food were in the range of 5 minutes, and this was impressive considering that the staff was working in a revamped kitchen with a revised/expanded menu. The Hollywood location boasted high-quality sodas and a nice selection of beers and wines--mostly local offerings.


Jonathon Kaplan, the founder of The Melt also founded Pure Digital Technologies, the good folks that brought low-cost, high-quality, video capture to the masses (Flip Camera). The Melt was based on a similar philosophy...take gourmet ingredients and package them for consumers at a reasonable price in a comfortable format.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The Melt was tight-lipped about the source, cuts, etc. I was informed that the beef was a custom blend of 90% Angus/10% Waygu. It seemed a fair guess that they went with one of the locally available, free-range, grass-fed, hormone-free ranches like Myer, Estancia, or Niman. The fat content came in at about 20%, and the oil coated my lips without creating a greasy mouth feel. The 4-ounce patty had a firm but not chewy texture. Based on the complexity of the flavors and texture, I guessed that the burger patty was predominantly Sirloin with some Chuck and Short Rib to round things out. The texture resembled coarsely ground steak, and the flavor followed suit. The beef was juicy, and it boasted strong beef notes along with mineral notes. The faint taste of complex funkiness likely came from Short Rib. The beef was a solid winner.


The Seasoning: The exterior of the irregular, hand-formed patty was seasoned with just the right amount of salt and pepper to accentuate the strong flavors of the juicy beef.

The Sear: The Melt applied a deep, rich sear to both sides of the burger. This was accomplished via a gas-fired flat-top.

The Preparation: The Melt took delivery of their beef in a ground and pre-blended state. The kitchen staff formed the 1/4 pound burger patties by hand during the prep cycle. The beef was not over-manipulated, and this resulted in the firm yet yielding bite. Burgers were cooked to the house default of Medium.

The Cheese: I tried a variety of burgers with a variety of cheeses. The Original came with Aged Cheddar....two slices of Aged Cheddar...each bonded to one of the halves of the bun rather than the burger. Smart! This juice-proofed the bun. The cheese itself was good. Salty and just a little gooey. It is important to note that I tried the burgers at The Melt in the way prescribed by the chef. That meant that the burgers were lent a fair amount of moisture and texture by the various toppings.

The Double Bacon BBQ Burger
The Bun: The Original's potato bun was savory with a cake-like consistency. This made perfect sense when combined with the lettuce, tomato, and sweetish Melt sauce. The high-domed bun was properly toasted. Again, I sampled all of the burgers fully topped, so the added ingredients imparted a lot of moisture to the bite. A meat/bun/cheese only burger would have probably been dominated by the bun.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: In the case of all of the fully topped burgers sampled, the meat to bun ratio was spot on.

The Toppings: The menu was designed by Chef Laurie Fulmer. Chef Fulmer took a very thoughtful and precise approach to her burger-craft and beyond.
  • Original ($4.95)--Fresh Iceberg lettuce...ripe, local tomato slice...savory/sweet Melt sauce.
  • Mission($5.95)--House-charred Jalapeno pepper slices...fresh, rich Avocado slices...house-pickled red onion...Harissa ketchup.
  • Double Bacon BBQ($6.95)--Crisp, smokey bacon (2 slices)...grilled onions...ripe, local tomato slice...BBQ sauce.  I loved this burger. Crunchy, beefy, savory, sweet--I would go back for that one.
  • The 'Shroom Chicken Melt
  • 'Shroom (Chicken Breast)--Moist, seared chicken breast...creamy Fontina cheese, wilted spinach leaves...house-pickled, red onions.
There were no bad choices in terms of the combinations. Each burger delivered a nice balance of flavors and textures.

The Fries: The Melt took delivery of par-cooked, bagged, and frozen fries. The peel-off, standard cut fries were properly crisped in canola oil and seasoned with the proprietary blend that went on the grilled cheese sandwiches for which the restaurant was famous. The fries remained crisp as they cooled. More importantly, the fries were delicious. The Well Dressed fries were well beyond delicious. The fries were covered in a mixture of Aged White Cheddar, Fontina, and Monterey Jack cheeses, crumbled bacon, and crispy onions. These were simply ridiculous and difficult to push back from.

The Mac And Cheese: I sampled a version called Trio. This was perfectly al dente Cellentani mixed with a savory blend of Aged Cheddar, Fontina, and Monterey Jack cheeses with a bit of crispy onion. This was perfectly delicious and difficult to stop eating.

The S'more: Good heavens, the S'more! This was an unreasonably tasty mess. Salted butter was applied to thinly sliced bread. This bread then sandwiched layers of French marshmallows, Godiva chocolate, and something resembling a caramel syrup. The whole works was seared to toasty, melty, gooey, sweet, and salty perfection. It was like the world's best version of Nutella. So good!

The Value: The Melt served up well-considered, artfully prepared, and high-quality burgers for a very reasonable price. The value was great.

The Melt served up chef-inspired cheeseburgers prepared with care, skill, and attention to the way that flavors work on the palate. The fries were terrific, and the S'more stole the show. The Sunset Strip boasts a fair number of burger restaurants...some good and some not so good. The Melt has firmly established itself among the best in the area.

Burger Review : Great burgers with the perfect amount and combinations of toppings at a very reasonable price. The Melt served up one of the best cheeseburgers on the Sunset Strip.

Rating...5 Bites (rounded up from 4.5 Bites)


Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Summer Break Visit Roundup -- Las Vegas, NV

Happy Meal and I dropped by Las Vegas after the Kansas visit to check in with The Marinater (now a Las Vegas resident) and to meet up with the Pretty Lady Veterinarian.

We went to B&B Burger & Beer twice (at The Venetian). Chef Jon Littleton is one of my favorite burger chefs, and the burgers are just a little better when he is running the kitchen. Both  The Marinater and the Pretty Lady Veterinarian were duly BLOWN AWAY by the crazy goodness of the Drive Thru Burger. I can't stress enough how completely excellent this burger has been on all three visits. It was simply perfect, and I am grateful that it is far away, or I would be the next contestant on The Biggest Loser.

Happy Meal and I also stopped by the Broadway Burger Bar & Grill at NY NY for a recheck on the cheeseburgers there. On this visit, the burgers were merely competent but nothing special--just average. The tomato slices were surprisingly bland and mealy (shameful considering it was the height of Summer).

This is off topic, but the Croissant Donuts at America Donuts (in NY NY Hotel and Casino) were stunningly good. We could see why New Yorkers queue up for these.


Monday, August 4, 2014

Wabash Bar & Grill -- Manhattan, KS

1116 Moro Street
Manhattan, KS 66502
785-320-6080







Happy Meal and I were on a pilgrimage to my hometown of Manhattan, KS. Nothing like wrecking a kid's Summer break by taking him to look at cattle and corn. That said, a college buddy of mine had recently opened a restaurant, and he had a selection (11) of ambitious burgers on the menu. My friend, Dave Bollman, is a mechanical engineer, so I was looking forward to his precise take on the American classic. The genesis of Wabash Bar & Grill was Dave's quest for a truly great cheeseburger. He had been fruitlessly searching and sampling for several years when a friend suggested that Dave try his favorite burger. Dave sampled the burger and rated it a 6 out of 10. The friend, Jerald Creed, was offended, but Dave invited him to his home and prepared his personal burger. This is where the collaboration was born, and the two opened Wabash Bar & Grill together. With all of that said, did the cheeseburger live up to the high expectations? Yes, it did. It was as good as I had hoped and better than I had anticipated. By coincidence we sampled the burger on the one-year anniversary of the opening of the restaurant.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: Quality beef is where it starts with a cheeseburger. In the case of Wabash Bar & Grill, the beef was locally sourced from Munson Premium Angus Beef. The beef supplier was less than 20 miles from the restaurant, and the beef was locally raised. While the blend was proprietary, it tasted and felt like a blend of Brisket, Sirloin, and a bit of Chuck, The beef was dry aged for 14 days, which lent a pleasant, but not overbearing, hint of funk to every bite. The beef was richly beefy with a strong presence of iron and complex steak flavors. The 8-ounce patty was perfectly juicy. It delivered a savory rush of wet awesomeness with each bite. The texture of the Med-Rare burger was lush and dense while presenting just the right amount of chewy resistance. The grind was Medium-Fine, which contributed to the luxuriousness of the bite. The fat content was a perfect 20%. The quality of the beef was simply exemplary and as good as any of the best burgers that I have sampled. Getting beef that close to the source was clearly working in favor of Wabash Bar & Grill. Happy Meal inhaled his burger. I was astonished to get a cheeseburger of such a high quality in such a small town.

The Seasoning: Salt and pepper were applied liberally, and in perfect proportion, to the exterior of the thick, pub-style burger patty.

The Sear: The beef was very juicy, and this resulted in a sear that was less than epic. Still, the sear provided crispness and a nice shift in texture. The flat top was hot enough as evidenced by the thin layer of Well-Done beef enveloping the remainder of the patty. The beef was so flavorful and well-seasoned that a crisp sear was not missed or even needed.

The Preparation: There was a precise level of care, which was apparent in everything about the burger. The handling, the cooking temperature, and the presentation all suggested that great care was given to detail and the kitchen maintained high standards.


The Cheese: Wabash Bar & Grill offered a nice variety of cheeses, but Happy Meal and I stuck with American. The cheese was gooey, savory, and served to lend a creaminess to the already decadent bite.  

The Bun: The bun was a proprietary brioche-esque affair. It was moderately yeasty and just a little savory. The bun was otherwise relatively invisible, and it got out of the way to let the spectacular beef be the star of the show. The bun was nicely toasted, and it lent a bit of crispness to the edge bites.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: Flawless.

The Toppings and Sides: I passed on toppings for my review burger, but I did try the house-made beans. These were a lovely combination of bacon and onion with sweet and smokey flavors. The beans were perfectly flavorful. I happen to really enjoy beans, and I found these to be exceptional. Happy Meal ordered the Mac and Cheese, and I managed to wrestle a single bite...it was terrific.

The Fries: The fries were nice, peel-on, standard-cut fries. They were earthy, crisp, well-browned, and perfectly seasoned. They were cooked in properly hot canola oil. The centers were creamy, which suggested that the fries at Wabash Bar & Grill were par-cooked.

The Skillet Brownie: Happy Meal pretty much fell in love with his dessert. It was a homemade brownie paired with local ice cream and house-made chocolate sauce. What?  Yes, they made their own chocolate syrup. It was a gooey delight, and it was so good that the ordinarily chatty Happy Meal went completely silent on me.

The Ranch Burger: At the end of the meal, Dave came out with his favorite burger and periodic special--The Ranch Burger--and we split that.  This was the same patty and bun but with a host of toppings: thinly sliced jalapeno, grilled tomato, caramelized onion, ranch  dressing, Provolone cheese, a green that seemed to be a combination of Romaine Lettuce and Curly Endive. This was a spectacularly complex and wet mouthful. I was grateful that I let my burger rest. Frankly, you should always let a burger rest a bit. 

The Value: $8.99 for a half pound of insanely good beef prepared meticulously and with passion was an amazing value. The burger at Wabash Bar & Grill vaulted into my top five list within 3 bites.

I walked in hoping that my friend would deliver a burger that I would enjoy enough to deliver a bit of honest praise. I walked out stunned by the fact that a world-class burger was being offered to an audience that probably lacked the experience to understand their remarkable good fortune.
I don't plan on returning to Kansas anytime soon, but I am glad to know that there is a remarkable burger waiting for me when I show up.

Burger Review : Are you kidding?  If you are within 100 miles of Manhattan, KS, get yourself to Wabash Bar & Grill and sample one of the best burgers in the country in a really unlikely setting. The burgers are a non-fussy result of endless experimentation to achieve a superb level of flavor and quality.

Rating...5 Bites

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

KGB: Kerry's Gourmet Burgers (Revisit) – Las Vegas, NV

At Harrah's

3475 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-369-5000 
website




I hadn't been to KGB at Harrah's for about three years, and a revisit was in order. Happy Meal was happy to tag along to try what I remembered being a darn fine burger.

Here's a little from the Harrah's website: "...Celebrity chef Kerry Simon opened his restaurant inside Harrah’s Las Vegas: KGB, Kerry’s Gourmet Burgers. KGB offers the ultimate Vegas burger selection with the signature Simon flair. Located in the heart of Harrah’s Las Vegas resort, KGB serves lunch and dinner. Simon, dubbed the “Rock ’n Roll Chef” by Rolling Stone magazine, created a brand of sexy restaurants with a distinct vibe. At KGB Las Vegas, Kerry Simon took inspiration from his Ultimate Burger victory on Food Network’s “Iron Chef America.“..."

We spoke with the chef and confirmed that aside from higher prices, the menu and ingredients were largely unchanged from 3 years ago. We ordered a bunch of stuff and a couple of the $14 BYB (Build Your Burger) Burgers.

While waiting for our cheeseburgers, we tried a few of the appetizers. We started with Mac and Cheese Sticks. These were breaded, deep-fried, bundles of tasty Mac and Cheese with a cheesy dipping sauce to take things from good to great.

Next, we moved on to the Buffalo Chicken Rolls. These were crisp won ton wrappers stuffed with a generous portion of perfectly seasoned, shredded Buffalo chicken. The dish was deep-fried and served with a creamy dipping sauce. Solid winner!

From there, we sampled the Fried Homemade Dill Pickles. Why? Because sometimes you just need a big-ass, deep-fried, spicy dill pickle. The pair of massive pickle halves were battered and fried. I really enjoyed this.

Finally, we tried the Iron Chef Sliders. Owner, Chef Kerry Simon, had recently won with on Iron Chef America.  The sliders were perfectly seared, funky from the beer (Shiner Bock) infusion, and just chewy enough to provide substance. The cheese was a medium Cheddar, and the bun closely resembled a King's Hawaiian Roll. This was finished with a fresh tomato slice. All told, the sliders were a great dish.

The Iron Chef  Sliders
Our burgers arrived shortly after we had plowed through the copious starters.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The burger beef at KGB was still the All Natural, 100% Angus, Myers Ranch beef blend from Premier Meat Company  The blend was the familiar 50% Chuck, 25% Ribeye, and 25% Brisket. The fat content was 20%. The burger meat was strongly beefy, tremendously juicy, and rich in texture (nearly creamy). While there was no funk from aging, there was a nice steak flavor from the premium cuts of beef in the blend. The thick, uniformly round patties were cooked to a perfect Med-Rare.

The Seasoning: The exterior of the burger patty was hit with just enough salt and pepper to bring out the best in the beef.

The Sear: Drat. The sear on this burger was weaker than on the previous visit. The burgers were cooked on a too cool grill, and it just didn't get the Maillard Reaction going. This would have been a nearly perfect burger with a good sear. This was the same shortcoming that I had observed on my previous visit to KGB.

The Preparation: The pre-formed, 8-ounce patties from Premiere Meat Company were perfectly handled. The cooking temperature was perfect, and all of the vegetables were splendid. The quality of preparation and skill in the kitchen was strong.

The Cheese: Boom! Two slices of American cheese. This was what the burger required--big bun, big meat, BIG cheese. The American cheese slices were just right, and the cheese provided the notes of salt, creaminess, and iron that served to round out the bite.

The Bun: The source of the bun shifted from the old Imperial Palace (now The Quad) bakery to the on-site bakery. The bun was a tender, nicely toasted (around the edges), sweet, moist, fresh, unseeded, standard burger bun.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: The big, thick bun was a perfect match to the big, thick, juicy burger patty.

The Toppings: The Iceberg lettuce at Kerry's Gourmet Burgers was fresh and crisp. The tomato slice was hearty, red, and ripe.

The Fries: The cheeseburgers came with a copious amount of fries. The fries were par-cooked, coated in potato flour, bagged and delivered frozen. The fries were excellent. The peel-on fries were well crisped and browned in canola oil. The fries were seasoned perfectly.

The Value: The $14 burger was $4 more than it had been less than 3 years ago. Still, the value was fine when one took into account the large size, the quality ingredients, and the amount of fries that accompanied the meal.

KGB: Kerry's Gourmet Burgers was consistent over the years. The high points remained the high points, and the low points continued to be the low points. Well...low point...that missing sear really bothered me. Happy Meal was pleased with his meal.

Burger Review : KGB at Harrah's produced a darn fine and generously portioned cheeseburger and fries for a fair price.

Rating...4 Bites

 

Friday, April 18, 2014

Buddy V's Ristorante--Las Vegas, NV

3339 Las Vegas Blvd. S.
at The Venetian
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-607-2355
website




Day 3 of the 2014 Spring Break Burger Tour took Happy Meal and me back to The Venetian to Buddy V's Ristorante. We were hoping that B&B Burgers & Beer hadn't set the burger bar too high, and those in its sphere of influence would  be able to follow suit. We spoke with the chef to gain an understanding of the burger. We decided to split the Angus Burger and a couple of sides.

The Calamari was just fantastic. It was combined with battered lemon slivers and sliced  pickle banana peppers. The tart notes combined with the savory of the spices on the generous portion worked perfectly. The sundried tomato aioli was a great touch.

The Grandma's Meatballs were also excellent. These were a combination of pork, beef, and veal. The meatballs were exactly what you always thought meatballs should be but could never quite attain--the springiness was sublime. These were the gold standard of meatballs. They were served on a bed of savory tomato ragu. I would go back for the meatballs alone.

Here it comes.....the Garlic Bread. The Garlic Bread was out of control. This was a decadent combination of Mozzarella, pesto, and soft Italian bread....all fried until the bread was crisp and the inside was moist and tender. This was all served on a bed of savory stewed tomatoes. This was a knife and fork affair, and even Happy Meal did not bristle at the concept. This was the finest and most subtle garlic bread that I have ever tried. It was a grilled cheese served in the style of fine dining with ingredients to match.

As we ate the amazing appetizers, we watched the tight cooperation and communication between the staff in the large, immaculate, and open kitchen. Our burger arrived in about 15 minutes.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The chef shared with me that the 8-ounce patty was a combination of equal parts Brisket, Short Rib, and Chuck. This was all Certified Premium Black Angus beef from Creekstone Farms in Kansas (where I was born and raised). The fat content came in at about 20% from the supplier who ground and blended the beef for Buddy V's Ristorante. The beef was strongly beefy in flavor, and there was a low note of minerality. There was no funk from aging. The beef was cooked past the requested Med-Rare, but we didn't feel like busting stones over that. The result was a juicy burger with a bit of chewiness. The upside was the fully denaturation of the collagen, which yielded a the strong beef flavors. Additionally, there was a nice note carbon from the grill.

The Seasoning: There was a mild dusting of salt on the exterior of the burger patty.

The Sear: The sear on the Buddy V's Ristorante burger was great. The sear was dark, deep, and flavorful. The sear was a winner and a fair trade for the higher than requested cooking temperature. I love a good sear.

The Preparation: The 8-ounce burger patties were formed to order. The thick patties were handled gently, and this made the burger as tender as it could be. The burgers were seared on a gas-fired grill. The quality of the burger and the other dishes that we sampled showed a strong level of talent in the kitchen.

The Cheese: The Angus Burger was served with a thick slab of mild, buttery, springy, melted Provolone. The Provolone worked well to contribute moisture and a bit of creaminess to the bite.

The Bun: Buddy V's Ristorante sourced the burger bun from Amato Bakery. This was the same bakery that Todd English's P.U.B. sourced their bun from. The Brioche bun was well-toasted, sweet, tender, and yeasty. The bun provided crunch around the edges. The Brioche was a little cakey in its texture, and this complemented the rich Provolone.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: This was spot on.

The Fries: The "Tuscan" fries were delivered peel-on, par-cooked, and frozen. The fries were nicely crisped in canola oil to a golden brown. The crisp and flavorful fries were finished with shredded Parmesan cheese, an appropriate amount of salt, and a generous dusting of Italian herbs.

The Toppings: The tomato aioli was house-made and flavorful. The Bibb lettuce was crisp and fresh. The tomato slice was ripe, juicy, and flavorful.

The Value:  $15 for a 1/2 pound burger with a mountain of fries was pretty much the going rate on the Las Vegas Strip. Buddy V's ingredients warranted the price.

Buddy V's Ristorante served up some amazing Italian dishes and a really tasty and competent cheeseburger.

Burger Review : A darn good burger at a fair price.

Rating...4 Bites

Thursday, April 17, 2014

B&B Burger & Beer--Las Vegas, NV

3355 Las Vegas Blvd S
at The Venetian
Las Vegas, NV 89101
702-414-2220
website



Happy Meal and I were on our second day of our 2014 Spring Break Burger tour. We selected B&B Burger & Beer at The Venetian as our second burger du jour. I had read all sorts of mixed reviews on this place, and I felt that this sort of passion and confusion warranted a closer look. B&B Burger & Beer took over the short-lived Rattlecan space, and it had been open for about 6 months at the time of this review. Here's an excerpt from the B&B Burger & Beer website:  "...B&B Burger & Beer is a bright, casual restaurant in the Venetian Hotel Casino. The space boasts a 2,000 square-foot, 75-seat outdoor patio facing Las Vegas Boulevard. In true Batali & Bastianich form, the atmosphere is trumped only by consistently delicious food. To that end, the menu at B&B Burger features local ingredients including dry-aged American beef for burgers, served on a perfectly charred bun, plus signature sides, robust salads, and standout shakes. The beer-driven beverage menu spotlights beers from Las Vegas and other local craft breweries..."

Happy Meal and I spoke with the Chef (Jon Littleton) who walked us through the ingredients, sourcing, and prep. Chef Littleton was warm, engaging, and highly informative. He clearly liked to work clean, since his chef's jacket was spotless--this spoke well of the kitchen in general. Our server, Daniel, treated our burger experience like fine dining, and his knowledge of the menu was stellar. All too often, I run across surly servers that show obvious annoyance when I try to get the details required to write a thorough review. Daniel was a cut above.

We ordered The Drive-Thru ($9) for Happy Meal, and I requested The Bar Burger - Your Way ($12 with cheese). I know this is skipping ahead, but we didn't raise an eyebrow at the prices. The ingredients were of such high quality and the preparation so meticulous, that the cost seemed low. Our burgers were ready in about 12 minutes. As we waited, we sampled the Pickles and the Unfried Mozzarella. 

The Pickles were deep fried, house-made, bread and butter pickles. These can be hit or miss, but at B&B Burger & Beer, the batter was made with vodka. When cooking, the alcohol evaporated, and this took away just enough liquid to keep the chips from becoming soggy with pickle brine. The chips were dusted with a savory seasoning to complement the sweet and sour within. The pickles were served with a very subtle, house-made, garlic aioli. This was a great starter. Happy Meal and I both loved this.

The Unfried Mozzarella was B&B Burger & Beer's take on fried cheese sticks. This was
Stracciatella on a bed of spicy tomato sauce. The dish was ridiculously good. The cheese (think Burrata) was buttery, delicate, warm, and soft. This coupled with the freshly toasted crostinis and the spicy sauce, and we had an appetizer worthy of fighting over (and we did). Happy Meal was quoted as saying, "You can't have enough of this." He was right.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: B&B Burger & Beer was a Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich venture. They had other jointly owned establishments in town, so this provided B&B with enhanced access to world-class ingredients. The beef was a prime example. The beef blend (50% Brisket and 50% Chuck) was ground and blended fresh daily onsite from hand-selected sides of beef from Niman Ranch. The beef was broken down, ground, and blended by the on-site butcher. Yes, these guys had a guy whose job was to select  the sides of beef for the restaurants. Niman Ranch beef is 100% Angus, vegetarian diet, and no hormone/antibiotic free. The burgers came out at 6 ounces each. The Drive Thru was two 3-ounce patties, and my burger was a single 6-ounce patty. The beef was splendid. The flavor hit us in a rush of sear, beef, salt and pepper, complex mineral notes, and a little blood. The texture was firm and then creamy. The burger patty was perfectly juicy with no trace of oiliness. The beef resembled the Stracciatella in its complexity and delicate texture, but the beef brought a sledgehammer of flavor to the palate. This was one of those bites that made me smile and slow down as I savored eat bite. The Drive-Thru Burger was very similar to my Bar Burger, except that burger had twice the sear and twice the cheese...twice the sear and twice the cheese in one bite was the culinary equivalent of a menage a trios. I will be getting that burger on my next visit. The beef was perfect.

The Seasoning: Salt and pepper and lots of it. The kitchen nailed the burgers with a good dose of seasoning...just the right amount. This was perfect. The seasoning unlocked the flavors of the high-quality beef and made it sparkle.

The Sear: Get out your crying towels...the sear was perfection. The sear wrapped the Med Rare interior in a thin and uniform shell of crisp, dark, chewy, savory Maillard Reaction magnificence. The sear was perfect. This was where I envied Happy Meal's choice of the Drive-Thru burger. His double patty burger had 4 layers of sear, and my burger had only 2. I wanted to do a lap through the kitchen and high five everyone.

The Preparation: The kitchen staff at B&B Burger & Beer took magnificent ingredients and prepared them with competence and near reverence. This great care came through in every bite. Our burgers were seared on a remarkably hot, gas-fired flat-top. The burger patties came to us a perfect Med-Rare.

The Cheese: There were numerous cheese choices: America, Swiss, Fontina, Goat, Gorgonzola, Pepper Jack, Provolone, and Robiola--I suppose that one could even request Stracciatella. I went with the usual American. The cheese was perfectly melted, and in sufficient quantity to make itself known throughout the bite. Savory, gooey, and just plain satisfying. This was more the case in the Drive-Thru burger, which had thinner patties.

The Bun: B&B Burger & Beer sourced their buns from one of my Las Vegas favorites, Bon Breads Bakery. I opted for the potato bun, which was......perfect. This was a standard, non-seeded, moderately toasted bun. It was savory, soft, and moist. The burger bun was just chewy enough at the beginning and then finished with a creaminess to mirror the texture of the beef. There was a bit of crispness around the edges to complement the epic sear. The sesame seeded bun on the Drive-Thru burger was equally good. It provided a bit more sweetness, and this worked with the double doses of sear and seasoning.
The Drive-Thru Burger

The Meat To Bun Ratio: PERFECT

The Toppings: Chef Littleton was a stickler for fresh produce and freshness in general. He spoke to me of the evils of oxidation, and I firmly agreed. This passion came though in the veg that accompanied the burgers. The tomato slice was bold, ripe, and full-flavored. The Bibb lettuce was fresh, crisp, sweet, and unblemished.

The Rings: Wow! This was the same batter that worked so well in the fried pickle dish. The batter worked equally well on the perfectly cooked onion rings. The tower of rings came with a tomato aioli (also house-made), and this was a rich and welcome alternative to ketchup. The brightness of ketchup can serve to mute other flavors. The rings were perfectly crisp and beautifully seasoned.

The Shake: The Nutella shake was made with vanilla gelato, Nutella, and candied hazelnuts. The shake was obscenely good. Happy Meal declared that if this shake was thrown over the side of a building, he would jump over to save it or at least enjoy it on the way down.

The Value: The prices were low in contrast to the amazing quality of ingredients and preparation. There was absolutely nothing to take issue with throughout the entire meal. I found myself wondering if they were charging enough.

At the time of this posting, B&B Burger & Beer was on my list of top burgers in the country. It edged out the burgers at BurGR on the merit of the sear. This burger was on par with the spectacular cheeseburger at The Brindle Room in NYC. I found myself already missing the burger as I took my last few bites. I am fortunate to live close enough to Las Vegas to repeat this experience. 

Burger Review : This was the best burger in Las Vegas. One the best cheeseburgers in the US. This burger made my short list, and it should make every critic's top 10 list. Fine dining on a bun...perfection.

Rating....5 Glorious Bites

Joe Bastianich
Joe Bastianich
Joe Bastianich

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Bobby's Burger Palace--Las Vegas, NV

3750 S Las Vegas Blvd
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-598-0191
website 

 

Bobby Flay had opened a gang of eponymous burger joints, and the Las Vegas Strip location at the Mandarin Oriental was a recent addition to the chain. The drill at BBP was order at the counter, sit, wait, and eat. I spoke with the manager and got the low down on the ingredients so that Happy Meal and I could order properly and give the Flay burger a fair shake. We ordered the Palace Classic and a side of fries and waited for about 10 minutes. I counted no less than 12 employees, so they were primed for business.
 
The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The beef was Certified Angus Beef sourced from  Sysco Foods. The 8-ounce burger patties arrive pre-formed. While the staff was tight lipped about the cuts of beef in the burgers, I guessed that the 80:20 beef was Chuck. The default cooking temperature was Medium, and that was my first clue. The flavor was strongly beefy with no other notes of aging, minerals, or steak....Chuck was a safe bet. The beef was juicy and tender while providing enough resistance to be satisfying.  

The Seasoning: Salt was strongly evident, and there was a bit of pepper on the exterior of the patty. Salt was the primary seasoning flavor that came through.

The Sear: The sear on my burger was close to non-existent. A crisp sear would have gone a long way on at Bobby's Burger Palace.

The Preparation: The burger patties were cooked on a too-cool, gas-fired, flat-top griddle. The grind of the beef was medium. The burgers came out a competent Medium.

The Cheese: BOOM! The thick slice of American cheese pulled this burger back from the brink of mediocrity. The cheese was rich, well-melted, gooey, savory, and with a strong iron flavor.

The Bun: The bun was  fresh and moist. It was sourced from Sysco Foods, as well. The bun was neutral in flavor and barely toasted. The bun was simply a means to keep our fingers clean.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: This was fine.

The Toppings: The Romaine lettuce was fresh and crisp. The tomato slice was rich and ripe.

The Fries: The fries at Bobby's Burger Palace were cut in house. The peel-on fries were par-cooked in canola oil and finished in canola oil. The fries were perfectly cooked and really nicely seasoned.   


The Value: $9.50 for a 1/2 pound burger was a fair price. I would have preferred higher quality ingredients. It was a bit surprising that this establishment was part of the Mandarin Oriental.

Burger Review : A better than average burger with convenient access to the Las Vegas Strip.

Rating: 4 Bites (rounded up from 3.5 Bites)

Munchbar--Las Vegas, NV

3570 Las Vegas Blvd South
In Caesars Palace
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-731-7544
website 





The Marinater had just moved back to Las Vegas, and Happy Meal and I wanted to pay tribute. I had tried burgers at Caesars Palace before. Bradley Ogden (closed) and P.J. Clarke's both failed to deliver. The "third time's a charm" rule came into play, and we met up at Munchbar (near the poker room). Munchbar had a great vibe: bustling, enthusiastic, happy and knowledgeable staff, and great looking dishes coming out of the kitchen. It was a chef's menu, so it was all bold flavor combinations with no shortage of bacon. We ordered a couple of the Munch Burgers and a BBQ Bacon Burger. The 10 ounce burgers were $15.95, and each came with a bucket of fries. We only had to kill about 10 minutes until our burgers arrived.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef:  The large patties were Certified Grass-Fed Angus Chuck. The fat content was 19% (very meticulous chef). The uniformly round and flat burger patties arrived pre-formed courtesy of Desert Meats. The flavor was strongly beefy. The mouth feel was firm and just chewy enough to create a strong sense of eating meat. The burger was juicy without being greasy. At 10 ounces, this was a lot of beef.


The Seasoning: The kitchen at Munchbar hit the exterior of the burger with just enough salt to make the beef flavors pop,

The Sear: The griddle at Munchbar was properly hot, and this imparted a nice and flavorful sear to the burger patty. The sear created a crisp layer of beef, which provided a shift in texture that was interesting. A good sear always elevates a burger.

The Preparation: The staff at Munchbar were on their game in terms of consistency, efficiency, quality, and presentation. The plates arrived swiftly and looking perfect--not a single thing out of place.

The Cheese: Munchbar used a mild Cheddar on the Munch Burgers. Other burgers received slices of Bleu Cheese. The sliced product came into play after patrons complained that the crumbled Bleu was too strongly flavored. Points to Munchbar for making the adjustment. The cheese slice on the savory Munch Burgers was thick enough to provide some texture. I should have gone with the Bleu or an American to complement the big burger.

The Bun: This was a standard, unseeded, burger bun. The bun was fresh, moist, sweet, and just substantial enough to stand up to the over-sized patty. The bun was lightly toasted, and it provided a nice crunch around the edges.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: This was just right.

The Toppings: The toppings (lettuce, onion, and tomato) were all fresh and ripe. I generally ignored these as I attempted to work through the large burger and bucket of fries.

The Fries: The fries at Munchbar were the perfect version of Five Guys fries. The fries were peel-on, par-cooked, frozen, bagged, and delivered. They were perfectly crisped, browned, and seasoned. There was not hint of sogginess, even as the fries cooled.

The BBQ Bacon Burger: Come on! Imagine a really good and really big burger patty but with BBQ sauce, bacon, and crispy onion strips. It was fantastic.

The Value: The value at Munchbar was right down the middle considering the fact that the burgers were huge, made from high quality ingredients, and arrived with a bucket of fries.

Munchbar did everything right. The staff, the menu, and the food were all on point.

Burger Review : A massive burger/meal at a reasonable price. A great experience and high-quality food at Munchbar.

Rating...4 Bites

 

Monday, April 14, 2014

Ketchup Premium Burger Bar--Las Vegas, NV

3663 Las Vegas Blvd
at Planet Hollywood
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-463-4433 
website 



This from the Ketchup site:  "....
Ketchup Premium Burger Bar was found (sic) by people, just like you, who LOVE burgers. When we opened our doors, we had one goal in mind: Fair prices, fresh ingredients, and fine burgers. We didn’t just want a place where customers could come to grab a quick bite, we wanted a place where customers would be happy to come back time and time again. We decided to only use the freshest ingredients, including our never frozen certified angus beef patties, and our fresh baked buns delivered daily from our local bakery. We get it, we’re burger people too, and we hope you like our food just as much as we do..." 


The owners of Blondie's Sports Bar, also at Planet Hollywood, had recently opened up a burger joint in the same complex as Gordon Ramsay's outstanding BurGR. This was ballsy, and Happy Meal and I wanted to investigate. We ordered a couple of basic 1/2 pound cheeseburgers ($10) at the counter. Our wait was a scant 4 minutes until our burgers arrived at our table. Now, I love the burger at BurGR.....BUT....sometimes I don't want to wait 45 minutes for a table and then 45 minutes more for a burger at a relatively high cost. 

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The 8-ounce beef patty at Ketchup Premium Burger Bar was Certified Angus Beef. I had the familiar beefiness of Chuck, but the GM assured me that it was not. That said the cuts of beef were a mystery. The thick, uniformly round patty was a traditional 80:20 lean to fat ratio. The flavor was all beef. This was a straight-forward burger in terms of flavor. The burger was juicy and not oily. The mouth feel was firm and just chewy enough to outlast the brioche bun.

The Seasoning: There was a faint dusting of salt. This was probably a growing pains oversight--more seasoning would have done the trick

The Sear: The edges of my burger patty picked up a nice sear, but the patty's center contracted as it cooked, so the center lacked a sear. A retooling of the patty or a light griddle weight would have rectified this.

The Preparation: The burgers are Ketchup Premium Burger Bar were cooked Medium and FAST on a gas-fired, stainless steel flat-top. The patties were formed with medium pressure. The grind was medium-coarse. The quality of the ingredients was high--the vegetables were especially fresh and ripe. The GM of Ketchup took some time to speak with me, and his focus on quality was clear.

The Cheese: Our cheeseburgers were topped with a thin slice of mild Cheddar. The cheese was a silent passenger. A burger that thick and heavy needed a far bolder cheese to make a noticeable and meaningful contribution.

The Bun: The brioche bun was barely toasted, but it was fresh, moist, and buttery. The bite was tender but just firm enough to stand up to the thick beef patty.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: This was perfect.

The Toppings: There were a variety of ketchups: Balsamic, Sriracha, Hickory, and standard. The Sriracha Ketchup was great. The tomato slices were thick, ripe, and hearty. The Romaine lettuce was perfect. 

The Fries: These were of the peel-on, par-cooked, frozen, bagged, and delivered in variety, but they were just fine. The fries were perfectly seasoned, well-browned, and crisp.

The Value: $10 for a 1/2 pound cheeseburger that arrived with blinding speed was just fine. Happy Meal and I were both happy with our meals.

Ketchup Premium Burger Bar was up against an 800-pound culinary gorilla. The price point combined with the speed of service made them a viable alternative for those craving a burger but lacking the foresight to factor in 1.5 hours from asking for a table to sinking teeth into meat, bun, and cheese.

Burger Review : High quality ingredients served at a fair price with great haste. The Oreo shake was amazing.

Rating...4 Bites (3.5 rounded up)


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