Kahou Teriyaki Fire Roof (Food Truck)--Santa Monica, CA

 I found the Kahou Teriyaki Fire Roof food truck at the corner of Broadway and Ocean Ave. in Santa Monica, CA.  No web presence.

I was driving home from a particularly awful beach workout when I spotted a food truck with the words "Ramen" and "Burger" adjacent to one another, in that order, on the side of a food truck, and not too far from my residence. I called Happy Meal to see if he wanted one. His response was, "Dad, dad...I'll ask the stupid questions here." I ordered a couple of the signature Ramen Burgers, and I hung around while the order was prepared. The flat top cooking surface was viewable through a window, so I had the opportunity to watch the burgers and ramen "buns" cook. 10 minutes later, the burgers were ready, and I was speeding home to share my discovery with Happy Meal.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The staff was busy at the Kahou Teriyaki Fire Roof truck, so I did not have a chance to get a depth of detail on the burger meat. The 8-ounce patty was strongly beefy and tasted like a 100% Chuck burger. The fat content was average--about 20%. There was no minerality, which would have suggested premium cuts, and there was no taste of funk/aging. The burger was juicy, and this was re-enforced by the moist, dense, ramen bun. The burger patty was just firm enough to linger on the palate and hold its own with the firm noodles.

The Seasoning: I observed the nice man behind the griddle hit the burgers with a salty blend of seasoning on both sides of the patty as they sizzled away. The seasoning was appropriate to stand up to a thick, 1/2 pound burger and equally thick ramen "buns."

The Sear: There was none. The moisture content of the Chuck, coupled with the griddle temp, caused the burger to steam more than sear. Frankly, a hearty sear would not have mattered from a texture standpoint. The savory, chewy noodle pucks provided a firm chew that would have trumped even the best sear.

The Preparation: Both the burger patty and the ramen pucks were pre-formed. All three were cooked on the same griddle and brought up to temperature. The burger was cooked to a juicy Med-Well. Med-Well was just right to denature the collagen in the Chuck, which released all of the beefy flavors. The patties were flipped only once as they cooked, and this was exactly right. The noodles were moist and hot with just a hint of carmelization, but not enough to create a stiff and overly chewy crust.

The Cheese: American...eff yeah! There was only one cheese choice at the Kahou Teriyaki Fire Roof truck, and that choice was the correct one. The American cheese was a decadent addition by way of texture. It added a creaminess to the firm mouth feel of the ramen. The iron and saltiness further served to complement the combination of beef and bun.

The Bun: The bun was exactly what I hoped it would be...dense, moist, chewy, savory, slightly sweet...you know, like a puck of satisfying and tasty ramen noodles. The bun was heavy...at least as heavy as the burger. The bun and beef patty weighed in at about a pound. That's not all, though. The noodles had been cooked, cooled, and reheated. The result was that the starch in the noodles was converted into a resistant starch. What? That's right! The glycemic index was lower than fresh noodles, because the starch behaved more like a fiber than a sugar.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: This was perfect. The vermiform bun paired nicely with the beef patty to deliver a consistent bite throughout the meal.

The Fries: There were none. The Kahou Teriyaki Fire Roof Ramen Burgers came with a little bag of Doritos. In other words, "all that and a bag of chips." Honestly, who needed fries after consuming 1/2 pound of noodles?

The Toppings: I wouldn't know. I was there for the ramen, beef, and cheese. Toppings seemed superfluous. There was a bit of greenery on my cheeseburger, but it went unnoticed.

The Value: $8 for a pound of delicious noodles and ground beef. I was not disappointed. The burger value at Kahou Teriyaki Fire Roof was strong. Normally food trucks jack up the prices (sort of like the airport). This food truck was a welcomed exception to that trend.

Ramen-bun cheeseburgers are a novelty rather than a mainstay, and I am glad to have that out of my system. I am even more glad that I tried my first at this food truck, because it was excellent in pairing, execution, and value.

Burger Review : A novel and tasty combination of ramen and burger were absolutely enjoyed at the Kahou Teriyaki Fire Roof food truck. If you see this truck anywhere, stop by and enjoy a cheeseburger...you will be happy that you did.

Rating...4 Bites

Bachi Burger--West Los Angeles

2030 Sawtelle Boulevard 
Los Angeles, CA 90025
424-832-3018
website

Several years ago, I visited the original Bachi Burger location in Las Vegas. The burgers, on that visit, were disappointing in the face of the hyped up praise the location had garnered from the local audience and press. In spite of this negative experience, Happy Meal and I decided to give Bachi Burger a second chance and sample the cheeseburger fare at the recently opened Little Osaka (West Los Angeles) outpost. There was a bounty of metered street parking available. We arrived at about 5 PM on a weekday, and we discovered that the service was slow and disorganized. A staff of 7 struggled to serve about the same number of patrons, and after an unduly long wait to order, our burgers took an additional 20 minutes to arrive. While we were waiting, we sampled the Boba Tea. We tried this, so you will never have to. The boba was clumpy and soggy. This beverage should be avoided at Bachi Burger...Boba Time on National Blvd is the current champ.


The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: Yawn. The Angus beef was sourced from Sysco Foods. It was comprised of Brisket, Short Rib, and Chuck. The fat content was about 20%. This blend is generally a winning burger combination, but in the case of Bachi Burger it came up in the range of Average.  The 7-ounce burger patty was meek in terms of beefy and satisfying steak flavors. The burger had only the faintest hint of complexity from the Short Rib. The flat patty was moderately juicy. The texture of the ground beef was firm yet yielding. 

The Seasoning: The mild burgers were lacking in the seasoning department. The only spice that I could discern was something mildly sweet on the exterior of the burger patty. There was no trace of salt or pepper.  Salt and pepper were very much needed to butch up this tame and passive burger patty.

The Sear: What sear? After waiting 20 minutes for a burger, I had hoped to see a sear proportional  to the buildup. Nope. The sear on the Custom Made BBQ Burger at Bachi Burger was nothing more than thin grill marks. This, coupled with the mild flavor of the beef and the lack of seasoning, left us with a perfectly average burger patty. For $9, we had hoped for something better than average.

The Preparation: The uniformity of the burger patties suggested that Bachi Burger took delivery of preformed burgers from their supplier, Sysco Foods. The burgers were cooked to a competent Med Rare, and the patties were only turned once during the cooking process. Once is enough, and it tends to produce a better sear by allowing the surface of the beef to reach a higher temperature. 

The Bun: The bun at Bachi Burger was a bespoke bun delivered by a local Taiwanese bakery. The faintly toasted bun was sweet and spongy. The sweetness of the bun paired with the lack of beefy and savory notes led to a cheeseburger, which was overly mild in flavor. The bun would have worked with a well-seasoned and high-quality burger patty. In this case, it served to send the bland burger even farther into the shadows.

The Meat To Bun Ratio:  This was spot on.

The Cheese: The cheese was available at an upcharge. $1.50 for Cheddar or Swiss, and $2.50 for Gruyere or Bleu. We opted for the Cheddar. The Cheddar did contribute a bit of savory flavor to the burger but not enough to save the dish.

The Fries: Yuck! The $4.00 fries were nicely presented and properly seasoned.  However, the skinny, peel-off fries had a watery and slightly bitter flavor reminiscent of Ore-Ida frozen Tater Tots. The fries also had a lank texture, which suggested that they had been sitting out for longer than was appropriate.

The Toppings: The Romaine lettuce was fresh and crisp. The tomato slice was juicy, ripe, and flavorful. 

The Value: $10.50 for a 7-ounce cheeseburger would have been a fine value had the burger been flavorful, properly seasoned, and properly seared. $4.00 for plain fries was not OK, and it was even less acceptable considering the low quality of the fries. The value at Bachi Burger was weak. 

The West Los Angeles Bachi Burger location delivered the same lackluster burger as the Las Vegas, NV location. Ironically, we had to walk past Plan Check to get to Bachi Burger. Plan Check has consistently served up one of the best cheeseburgers in Los Angeles.

Burger Review : Don't believe the hype. The cheeseburgers were under-whelming and over-priced. 

Rating: 3 Bites (rounded up from 2.5)

Seoul Sausage Company--Los Angeles, CA

11313 Mississippi Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90025
310-477-7739
website

Seoul Sausage Company had recently won their season of The Great Food Truck Race (Season 3). It had also gotten a bit of attention for the Korean-style burgers. Happy Meal was a little reluctant to get out of his burger comfort zone, but I managed to charm him into tagging along. The "Little Osaka" location was just off of Sawtelle, and it had an abundance of free parking on the adjacent side streets.

We ordered a couple of the KBBQ Burgers ($7-beef), a soda, and a Spam Musubi Ball (fun). Seating was a challenge--6 seats at the counter and a bit of standing room in front. The "gentleman" seated next to me had an odd sense of entitlement regarding the shared space, and his resultant passive-aggressive jockeying was fun to watch and directly experience. Some folks just have a tough time with concept of sharing. Our burgers were ready at the counter in about 10 minutes.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: Seoul Sausage Company served up a 1/3 pound patty composed of about 4 parts marinated Short Rib, 1 part Chuck and a fair amount of green onion. The fat content was somewhere between 20-25 percent. The bite was juicy, and that was a little surprising considering I had observed the cook pressing some of the juice out of my burger on the smokey grill. Aside from being juicy, the thick, irregular, hand-formed patty had a firm bite and a mouth feel of tender steak. Keep in mind that this was a Galbi burger. The flavor was all garlic, heat, and sweetness. The Short Rib's complexity and the beefy notes of the Chuck were dominated by the Galbi marinade so much that any flavor contribution from the beef was imperceptible.

The Sear:  Heck yes!  The sear on the burgers at Seoul Sausage Company was crisp and dark. The fat and sugar content of the burger coupled with the high heat of the gas-fired grill created a bacon-like crust on the beef, and this was just right. The level of sear worked especially well with the heavily seasoned beef to produce something akin to a crisp sausage patty.

The Seasoning: The interior of the burger was composed of Galbi marinated beef. There was no seasoning applied to the exterior--it would have been redundant overkill.

The Preparation: The juicy burger patties were hand-formed just before they were placed on the intensely hot, cast-iron grates of the gas-fired grill. The beef was scarcely handled, and that resulted in a tender bite. The beef was marinated, ground, and blended on site. The burgers were cooked to a juicy Med-Rare. The burgers were flipped once, which was correct and delivered a thorough sear.

The Cheese: The was no cheese of the burgers at Seoul Sausage Company. There was a creamy jalapeno aioli, and I'll get to that in a moment.

The Bun: The bun was properly toasted and quite neutral. The soft, fresh bun had one job....keep the fingers clean while delivering the seasoned beef to my mouth. The bun did its job without making a big deal about it. Sort of what you'd like to see out of Joe Biden.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: Perfect.

The Toppings: Our burgers came out dressed with thin strips of marinated, sweet and tangy,  red onion and a spicy, garlicky, jalapeno aioli. These toppings nicely complemented the sweetness of the Galbi beef. Again, this was a burger that didn't not taste like beef. It was all seasonings and toppings. This was not a bad thing, just not a burger thing.

The Sides: I would love to go on and on about the Spam Musubi Ball, but Happy Meal ate the whole thing before I could get a bite. He said it was great, and he really like the macaroni, which was blended into it.

The Value: It was a darn good Korean beef sandwich. The quality of the ingredients were in line with the pricing.

I wouldn't recommend Seoul Sausage Company to burger lovers, since the dish was really Galbi Beef in the shape of a burger patty and served on a bun for the sake of convenience and convention. I would recommend the sandwich to anyone that appreciates well executed takes on Korean classic dishes. At the time of this review, Seoul Sausage Company was preparing to launch a second food truck and a second location in downtown Los Angeles.

Burger Review : Seoul Sausage Company is not a burger restaurant, and they did not serve up a traditional burger. What they did serve up was a well-executed and strongly flavored interpretation of Galbi Beef.

Rating...3 Bites (not an average dish, but not really a burger)

The Melt -- Hollywood, CA

6290 Sunset Blvd,
Hollywood, CA 90028
(213) 344-4906
website

The Original Burger

The good people of The Melt were generous enough to invite me to the relaunch/prelaunch of the Hollywood location. Metered street parking was a breeze to find. The setup at The Melt was the standard order and pay at the counter. My host, Jenna, was a trove of useful information about both the food and the organization. She set me up with a broad sampling of The Melt's burger and sides fare. I noted that the wait times for food were in the range of 5 minutes, and this was impressive considering that the staff was working in a revamped kitchen with a revised/expanded menu. The Hollywood location boasted high-quality sodas and a nice selection of beers and wines--mostly local offerings.


Jonathon Kaplan, the founder of The Melt also founded Pure Digital Technologies, the good folks that brought low-cost, high-quality, video capture to the masses (Flip Camera). The Melt was based on a similar philosophy...take gourmet ingredients and package them for consumers at a reasonable price in a comfortable format.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The Melt was tight-lipped about the source, cuts, etc. I was informed that the beef was a custom blend of 90% Angus/10% Waygu. It seemed a fair guess that they went with one of the locally available, free-range, grass-fed, hormone-free ranches like Myer, Estancia, or Niman. The fat content came in at about 20%, and the oil coated my lips without creating a greasy mouth feel. The 4-ounce patty had a firm but not chewy texture. Based on the complexity of the flavors and texture, I guessed that the burger patty was predominantly Sirloin with some Chuck and Short Rib to round things out. The texture resembled coarsely ground steak, and the flavor followed suit. The beef was juicy, and it boasted strong beef notes along with mineral notes. The faint taste of complex funkiness likely came from Short Rib. The beef was a solid winner.


The Seasoning: The exterior of the irregular, hand-formed patty was seasoned with just the right amount of salt and pepper to accentuate the strong flavors of the juicy beef.

The Sear: The Melt applied a deep, rich sear to both sides of the burger. This was accomplished via a gas-fired flat-top.

The Preparation: The Melt took delivery of their beef in a ground and pre-blended state. The kitchen staff formed the 1/4 pound burger patties by hand during the prep cycle. The beef was not over-manipulated, and this resulted in the firm yet yielding bite. Burgers were cooked to the house default of Medium.

The Cheese: I tried a variety of burgers with a variety of cheeses. The Original came with Aged Cheddar....two slices of Aged Cheddar...each bonded to one of the halves of the bun rather than the burger. Smart! This juice-proofed the bun. The cheese itself was good. Salty and just a little gooey. It is important to note that I tried the burgers at The Melt in the way prescribed by the chef. That meant that the burgers were lent a fair amount of moisture and texture by the various toppings.

The Double Bacon BBQ Burger

The Bun: The Original's potato bun was savory with a cake-like consistency. This made perfect sense when combined with the lettuce, tomato, and sweetish Melt sauce. The high-domed bun was properly toasted. Again, I sampled all of the burgers fully topped, so the added ingredients imparted a lot of moisture to the bite. A meat/bun/cheese only burger would have probably been dominated by the bun.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: In the case of all of the fully topped burgers sampled, the meat to bun ratio was spot on.

The Toppings: The menu was designed by Chef Laurie Fulmer. Chef Fulmer took a very thoughtful and precise approach to her burger-craft and beyond.

• Original ($4.95)--Fresh Iceberg lettuce...ripe, local tomato slice...savory/sweet Melt sauce.
• Mission($5.95)--House-charred Jalapeno pepper slices...fresh, rich Avocado slices...house-pickled red onion...Harissa ketchup.
• Double Bacon BBQ($6.95)--Crisp, smokey bacon (2 slices)...grilled onions...ripe, local tomato slice...BBQ sauce.  I loved this burger. Crunchy, beefy, savory, sweet--I would go back for that one.



The 'Shroom Chicken Melt

• 'Shroom (Chicken Breast)--Moist, seared chicken breast...creamy Fontina cheese, wilted spinach leaves...house-pickled, red onions.

There were no bad choices in terms of the combinations. Each burger delivered a nice balance of flavors and textures.

The Fries: The Melt took delivery of par-cooked, bagged, and frozen fries. The peel-off, standard cut fries were properly crisped in canola oil and seasoned with the proprietary blend that went on the grilled cheese sandwiches for which the restaurant was famous. The fries remained crisp as they cooled. More importantly, the fries were delicious. The Well Dressed fries were well beyond delicious. The fries were covered in a mixture of Aged White Cheddar, Fontina, and Monterey Jack cheeses, crumbled bacon, and crispy onions. These were simply ridiculous and difficult to push back from.

The Mac And Cheese: I sampled a version called Trio. This was perfectly al dente Cellentani mixed with a savory blend of Aged Cheddar, Fontina, and Monterey Jack cheeses with a bit of crispy onion. This was perfectly delicious and difficult to stop eating.

The S'more: Good heavens, the S'more! This was an unreasonably tasty mess. Salted butter was applied to thinly sliced bread. This bread then sandwiched layers of French marshmallows, Godiva chocolate, and something resembling a caramel syrup. The whole works was seared to toasty, melty, gooey, sweet, and salty perfection. It was like the world's best version of Nutella. So good!

The Value: The Melt served up well-considered, artfully prepared, and high-quality burgers for a very reasonable price. The value was great.

The Melt served up chef-inspired cheeseburgers prepared with care, skill, and attention to the way that flavors work on the palate. The fries were terrific, and the S'more stole the show. The Sunset Strip boasts a fair number of burger restaurants...some good and some not so good. The Melt has firmly established itself among the best in the area.

Burger Review : Great burgers with the perfect amount and combinations of toppings at a very reasonable price. The Melt served up one of the best cheeseburgers on the Sunset Strip.

Rating...5 Bites (rounded up from 4.5 Bites)

Wabash Bar & Grill -- Manhattan, KS

1116 Moro Street
Manhattan, KS 66502
785-320-6080

Happy Meal and I were on a pilgrimage to my hometown of Manhattan, KS. Nothing like wrecking a kid's Summer break by taking him to look at cattle and corn. That said, a college buddy of mine had recently opened a restaurant, and he had a selection (11) of ambitious burgers on the menu. My friend, Dave Bollman, is a mechanical engineer, so I was looking forward to his precise take on the American classic. The genesis of Wabash Bar & Grill was Dave's quest for a truly great cheeseburger. He had been fruitlessly searching and sampling for several years when a friend suggested that Dave try his favorite burger. Dave sampled the burger and rated it a 6 out of 10. The friend, Jerald Creed, was offended, but Dave invited him to his home and prepared his personal burger. This is where the collaboration was born, and the two opened Wabash Bar & Grill together. With all of that said, did the cheeseburger live up to the high expectations? Yes, it did. It was as good as I had hoped and better than I had anticipated. By coincidence we sampled the burger on the one-year anniversary of the opening of the restaurant.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: Quality beef is where it starts with a cheeseburger. In the case of Wabash Bar & Grill, the beef was locally sourced from Munson Premium Angus Beef. The beef supplier was less than 20 miles from the restaurant, and the beef was locally raised. While the blend was proprietary, it tasted and felt like a blend of Brisket, Sirloin, and a bit of Chuck, The beef was dry aged for 14 days, which lent a pleasant, but not overbearing, hint of funk to every bite. The beef was richly beefy with a strong presence of iron and complex steak flavors. The 8-ounce patty was perfectly juicy. It delivered a savory rush of wet awesomeness with each bite. The texture of the Med-Rare burger was lush and dense while presenting just the right amount of chewy resistance. The grind was Medium-Fine, which contributed to the luxuriousness of the bite. The fat content was a perfect 20%. The quality of the beef was simply exemplary and as good as any of the best burgers that I have sampled. Getting beef that close to the source was clearly working in favor of Wabash Bar & Grill. Happy Meal inhaled his burger. I was astonished to get a cheeseburger of such a high quality in such a small town.

The Seasoning: Salt and pepper were applied liberally, and in perfect proportion, to the exterior of the thick, pub-style burger patty.

The Sear: The beef was very juicy, and this resulted in a sear that was less than epic. Still, the sear provided crispness and a nice shift in texture. The flat top was hot enough as evidenced by the thin layer of Well-Done beef enveloping the remainder of the patty. The beef was so flavorful and well-seasoned that a crisp sear was not missed or even needed.

The Preparation: There was a precise level of care, which was apparent in everything about the burger. The handling, the cooking temperature, and the presentation all suggested that great care was given to detail and the kitchen maintained high standards.

The Cheese: Wabash Bar & Grill offered a nice variety of cheeses, but Happy Meal and I stuck with American. The cheese was gooey, savory, and served to lend a creaminess to the already decadent bite.  

The Bun: The bun was a proprietary brioche-esque affair. It was moderately yeasty and just a little savory. The bun was otherwise relatively invisible, and it got out of the way to let the spectacular beef be the star of the show. The bun was nicely toasted, and it lent a bit of crispness to the edge bites.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: Flawless.

The Toppings and Sides: I passed on toppings for my review burger, but I did try the house-made beans. These were a lovely combination of bacon and onion with sweet and smokey flavors. The beans were perfectly flavorful. I happen to really enjoy beans, and I found these to be exceptional. Happy Meal ordered the Mac and Cheese, and I managed to wrestle a single bite...it was terrific.

The Fries: The fries were nice, peel-on, standard-cut fries. They were earthy, crisp, well-browned, and perfectly seasoned. They were cooked in properly hot canola oil. The centers were creamy, which suggested that the fries at Wabash Bar & Grill were par-cooked.

The Skillet Brownie: Happy Meal pretty much fell in love with his dessert. It was a homemade brownie paired with local ice cream and house-made chocolate sauce. What?  Yes, they made their own chocolate syrup. It was a gooey delight, and it was so good that the ordinarily chatty Happy Meal went completely silent on me.

The Ranch Burger: At the end of the meal, Dave came out with his favorite burger and periodic special--The Ranch Burger--and we split that.  This was the same patty and bun but with a host of toppings: thinly sliced jalapeno, grilled tomato, caramelized onion, ranch  dressing, Provolone cheese, a green that seemed to be a combination of Romaine Lettuce and Curly Endive. This was a spectacularly complex and wet mouthful. I was grateful that I let my burger rest. Frankly, you should always let a burger rest a bit. 

The Value: $8.99 for a half pound of insanely good beef prepared meticulously and with passion was an amazing value. The burger at Wabash Bar & Grill vaulted into my top five list within 3 bites.

I walked in hoping that my friend would deliver a burger that I would enjoy enough to deliver a bit of honest praise. I walked out stunned by the fact that a world-class burger was being offered to an audience that probably lacked the experience to understand their remarkable good fortune.
I don't plan on returning to Kansas anytime soon, but I am glad to know that there is a remarkable burger waiting for me when I show up.

Burger Review : Are you kidding?  If you are within 100 miles of Manhattan, KS, get yourself to Wabash Bar & Grill and sample one of the best burgers in the country in a really unlikely setting. The burgers are a non-fussy result of endless experimentation to achieve a superb level of flavor and quality.

Rating...5 Bites

KGB: Kerry's Gourmet Burgers (Revisit) – Las Vegas, NV

At Harrah's

3475 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109

702-369-5000 

website




I hadn't been to KGB at Harrah's for about three years, and a revisit was in order. Happy Meal was happy to tag along to try what I remembered being a darn fine burger.

Here's a little from the Harrah's website: "...Celebrity chef Kerry Simon opened his restaurant inside Harrah’s Las Vegas: KGB, Kerry’s Gourmet Burgers. KGB offers the ultimate Vegas burger selection with the signature Simon flair. Located in the heart of Harrah’s Las Vegas resort, KGB serves lunch and dinner. Simon, dubbed the “Rock ’n Roll Chef” by Rolling Stone magazine, created a brand of sexy restaurants with a distinct vibe. At KGB Las Vegas, Kerry Simon took inspiration from his Ultimate Burger victory on Food Network’s “Iron Chef America.“..."

We spoke with the chef and confirmed that aside from higher prices, the menu and ingredients were largely unchanged from 3 years ago. We ordered a bunch of stuff and a couple of the $14 BYB (Build Your Burger) Burgers.

While waiting for our cheeseburgers, we tried a few of the appetizers. We started with Mac and Cheese Sticks. These were breaded, deep-fried, bundles of tasty Mac and Cheese with a cheesy dipping sauce to take things from good to great.

Next, we moved on to the Buffalo Chicken Rolls. These were crisp won ton wrappers stuffed with a generous portion of perfectly seasoned, shredded Buffalo chicken. The dish was deep-fried and served with a creamy dipping sauce. Solid winner!

From there, we sampled the Fried Homemade Dill Pickles. Why? Because sometimes you just need a big-ass, deep-fried, spicy dill pickle. The pair of massive pickle halves were battered and fried. I really enjoyed this.

Finally, we tried the Iron Chef Sliders. Owner, Chef Kerry Simon, had recently won with on Iron Chef America.  The sliders were perfectly seared, funky from the beer (Shiner Bock) infusion, and just chewy enough to provide substance. The cheese was a medium Cheddar, and the bun closely resembled a King's Hawaiian Roll. This was finished with a fresh tomato slice. All told, the sliders were a great dish.

The Iron Chef  Sliders

Our burgers arrived shortly after we had plowed through the copious starters.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The burger beef at KGB was still the All Natural, 100% Angus, Myers Ranch beef blend from Premier Meat Company  The blend was the familiar 50% Chuck, 25% Ribeye, and 25% Brisket. The fat content was 20%. The burger meat was strongly beefy, tremendously juicy, and rich in texture (nearly creamy). While there was no funk from aging, there was a nice steak flavor from the premium cuts of beef in the blend. The thick, uniformly round patties were cooked to a perfect Med-Rare.

The Seasoning: The exterior of the burger patty was hit with just enough salt and pepper to bring out the best in the beef.

The Sear: Drat. The sear on this burger was weaker than on the previous visit. The burgers were cooked on a too cool grill, and it just didn't get the Maillard Reaction going. This would have been a nearly perfect burger with a good sear. This was the same shortcoming that I had observed on my previous visit to KGB.

The Preparation: The pre-formed, 8-ounce patties from Premiere Meat Company were perfectly handled. The cooking temperature was perfect, and all of the vegetables were splendid. The quality of preparation and skill in the kitchen was strong.

The Cheese: Boom! Two slices of American cheese. This was what the burger required--big bun, big meat, BIG cheese. The American cheese slices were just right, and the cheese provided the notes of salt, creaminess, and iron that served to round out the bite.

The Bun: The source of the bun shifted from the old Imperial Palace (now The Quad) bakery to the on-site bakery. The bun was a tender, nicely toasted (around the edges), sweet, moist, fresh, unseeded, standard burger bun.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: The big, thick bun was a perfect match to the big, thick, juicy burger patty.

The Toppings: The Iceberg lettuce at Kerry's Gourmet Burgers was fresh and crisp. The tomato slice was hearty, red, and ripe.

The Fries: The cheeseburgers came with a copious amount of fries. The fries were par-cooked, coated in potato flour, bagged and delivered frozen. The fries were excellent. The peel-on fries were well crisped and browned in canola oil. The fries were seasoned perfectly.

The Value: The $14 burger was $4 more than it had been less than 3 years ago. Still, the value was fine when one took into account the large size, the quality ingredients, and the amount of fries that accompanied the meal.

KGB: Kerry's Gourmet Burgers was consistent over the years. The high points remained the high points, and the low points continued to be the low points. Well...low point...that missing sear really bothered me. Happy Meal was pleased with his meal.

Burger Review : KGB at Harrah's produced a darn fine and generously portioned cheeseburger and fries for a fair price.

Rating...4 Bites

 

Buddy V's Ristorante--Las Vegas, NV

3339 Las Vegas Blvd. S.
at The Venetian
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-607-2355
website

Day 3 of the 2014 Spring Break Burger Tour took Happy Meal and me back to The Venetian to Buddy V's Ristorante. We were hoping that B&B Burgers & Beer hadn't set the burger bar too high, and those in its sphere of influence would  be able to follow suit. We spoke with the chef to gain an understanding of the burger. We decided to split the Angus Burger and a couple of sides.

The Calamari was just fantastic. It was combined with battered lemon slivers and sliced  pickle banana peppers. The tart notes combined with the savory of the spices on the generous portion worked perfectly. The sundried tomato aioli was a great touch.

The Grandma's Meatballs were also excellent. These were a combination of pork, beef, and veal. The meatballs were exactly what you always thought meatballs should be but could never quite attain--the springiness was sublime. These were the gold standard of meatballs. They were served on a bed of savory tomato ragu. I would go back for the meatballs alone.

Here it comes.....the Garlic Bread. The Garlic Bread was out of control. This was a decadent combination of Mozzarella, pesto, and soft Italian bread....all fried until the bread was crisp and the inside was moist and tender. This was all served on a bed of savory stewed tomatoes. This was a knife and fork affair, and even Happy Meal did not bristle at the concept. This was the finest and most subtle garlic bread that I have ever tried. It was a grilled cheese served in the style of fine dining with ingredients to match.

As we ate the amazing appetizers, we watched the tight cooperation and communication between the staff in the large, immaculate, and open kitchen. Our burger arrived in about 15 minutes.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The chef shared with me that the 8-ounce patty was a combination of equal parts Brisket, Short Rib, and Chuck. This was all Certified Premium Black Angus beef from Creekstone Farms in Kansas (where I was born and raised). The fat content came in at about 20% from the supplier who ground and blended the beef for Buddy V's Ristorante. The beef was strongly beefy in flavor, and there was a low note of minerality. There was no funk from aging. The beef was cooked past the requested Med-Rare, but we didn't feel like busting stones over that. The result was a juicy burger with a bit of chewiness. The upside was the fully denaturation of the collagen, which yielded a the strong beef flavors. Additionally, there was a nice note carbon from the grill.

The Seasoning: There was a mild dusting of salt on the exterior of the burger patty.

The Sear: The sear on the Buddy V's Ristorante burger was great. The sear was dark, deep, and flavorful. The sear was a winner and a fair trade for the higher than requested cooking temperature. I love a good sear.

The Preparation: The 8-ounce burger patties were formed to order. The thick patties were handled gently, and this made the burger as tender as it could be. The burgers were seared on a gas-fired grill. The quality of the burger and the other dishes that we sampled showed a strong level of talent in the kitchen.

The Cheese: The Angus Burger was served with a thick slab of mild, buttery, springy, melted Provolone. The Provolone worked well to contribute moisture and a bit of creaminess to the bite.

The Bun: Buddy V's Ristorante sourced the burger bun from Amato Bakery. This was the same bakery that Todd English's P.U.B. sourced their bun from. The Brioche bun was well-toasted, sweet, tender, and yeasty. The bun provided crunch around the edges. The Brioche was a little cakey in its texture, and this complemented the rich Provolone.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: This was spot on.

The Fries: The "Tuscan" fries were delivered peel-on, par-cooked, and frozen. The fries were nicely crisped in canola oil to a golden brown. The crisp and flavorful fries were finished with shredded Parmesan cheese, an appropriate amount of salt, and a generous dusting of Italian herbs.

The Toppings: The tomato aioli was house-made and flavorful. The Bibb lettuce was crisp and fresh. The tomato slice was ripe, juicy, and flavorful.

The Value:  $15 for a 1/2 pound burger with a mountain of fries was pretty much the going rate on the Las Vegas Strip. Buddy V's ingredients warranted the price.

Buddy V's Ristorante served up some amazing Italian dishes and a really tasty and competent cheeseburger.

Burger Review : A darn good burger at a fair price.

Rating...4 Bites

Bobby's Burger Palace--Las Vegas, NV

3750 S Las Vegas Blvd
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-598-0191
website 

 

Bobby Flay had opened a gang of eponymous burger joints, and the Las Vegas Strip location at the Mandarin Oriental was a recent addition to the chain. The drill at BBP was order at the counter, sit, wait, and eat. I spoke with the manager and got the low down on the ingredients so that Happy Meal and I could order properly and give the Flay burger a fair shake. We ordered the Palace Classic and a side of fries and waited for about 10 minutes. I counted no less than 12 employees, so they were primed for business.
 
The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The beef was Certified Angus Beef sourced from  Sysco Foods. The 8-ounce burger patties arrive pre-formed. While the staff was tight lipped about the cuts of beef in the burgers, I guessed that the 80:20 beef was Chuck. The default cooking temperature was Medium, and that was my first clue. The flavor was strongly beefy with no other notes of aging, minerals, or steak....Chuck was a safe bet. The beef was juicy and tender while providing enough resistance to be satisfying.  

The Seasoning: Salt was strongly evident, and there was a bit of pepper on the exterior of the patty. Salt was the primary seasoning flavor that came through.

The Sear: The sear on my burger was close to non-existent. A crisp sear would have gone a long way on at Bobby's Burger Palace.

The Preparation: The burger patties were cooked on a too-cool, gas-fired, flat-top griddle. The grind of the beef was medium. The burgers came out a competent Medium.

The Cheese: BOOM! The thick slice of American cheese pulled this burger back from the brink of mediocrity. The cheese was rich, well-melted, gooey, savory, and with a strong iron flavor.

The Bun: The bun was  fresh and moist. It was sourced from Sysco Foods, as well. The bun was neutral in flavor and barely toasted. The bun was simply a means to keep our fingers clean.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: This was fine.

The Toppings: The Romaine lettuce was fresh and crisp. The tomato slice was rich and ripe.

The Fries: The fries at Bobby's Burger Palace were cut in house. The peel-on fries were par-cooked in canola oil and finished in canola oil. The fries were perfectly cooked and really nicely seasoned.   

The Value: $9.50 for a 1/2 pound burger was a fair price. I would have preferred higher quality ingredients. It was a bit surprising that this establishment was part of the Mandarin Oriental.

Burger Review : A better than average burger with convenient access to the Las Vegas Strip.

Rating: 4 Bites (rounded up from 3.5 Bites)

Munchbar--Las Vegas, NV

3570 Las Vegas Blvd South
In Caesars Palace
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-731-7544
website 

The Marinater had just moved back to Las Vegas, and Happy Meal and I wanted to pay tribute. I had tried burgers at Caesars Palace before. Bradley Ogden (closed) and P.J. Clarke's both failed to deliver. The "third time's a charm" rule came into play, and we met up at Munchbar (near the poker room). Munchbar had a great vibe: bustling, enthusiastic, happy and knowledgeable staff, and great looking dishes coming out of the kitchen. It was a chef's menu, so it was all bold flavor combinations with no shortage of bacon. We ordered a couple of the Munch Burgers and a BBQ Bacon Burger. The 10 ounce burgers were $15.95, and each came with a bucket of fries. We only had to kill about 10 minutes until our burgers arrived.

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef:  The large patties were Certified Grass-Fed Angus Chuck. The fat content was 19% (very meticulous chef). The uniformly round and flat burger patties arrived pre-formed courtesy of Desert Meats. The flavor was strongly beefy. The mouth feel was firm and just chewy enough to create a strong sense of eating meat. The burger was juicy without being greasy. At 10 ounces, this was a lot of beef.


The Seasoning: The kitchen at Munchbar hit the exterior of the burger with just enough salt to make the beef flavors pop,

The Sear: The griddle at Munchbar was properly hot, and this imparted a nice and flavorful sear to the burger patty. The sear created a crisp layer of beef, which provided a shift in texture that was interesting. A good sear always elevates a burger.

The Preparation: The staff at Munchbar were on their game in terms of consistency, efficiency, quality, and presentation. The plates arrived swiftly and looking perfect--not a single thing out of place.

The Cheese: Munchbar used a mild Cheddar on the Munch Burgers. Other burgers received slices of Bleu Cheese. The sliced product came into play after patrons complained that the crumbled Bleu was too strongly flavored. Points to Munchbar for making the adjustment. The cheese slice on the savory Munch Burgers was thick enough to provide some texture. I should have gone with the Bleu or an American to complement the big burger.

The Bun: This was a standard, unseeded, burger bun. The bun was fresh, moist, sweet, and just substantial enough to stand up to the over-sized patty. The bun was lightly toasted, and it provided a nice crunch around the edges.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: This was just right.

The Toppings: The toppings (lettuce, onion, and tomato) were all fresh and ripe. I generally ignored these as I attempted to work through the large burger and bucket of fries.

The Fries: The fries at Munchbar were the perfect version of Five Guys fries. The fries were peel-on, par-cooked, frozen, bagged, and delivered. They were perfectly crisped, browned, and seasoned. There was not hint of sogginess, even as the fries cooled.

The BBQ Bacon Burger: Come on! Imagine a really good and really big burger patty but with BBQ sauce, bacon, and crispy onion strips. It was fantastic.

The Value: The value at Munchbar was right down the middle considering the fact that the burgers were huge, made from high quality ingredients, and arrived with a bucket of fries.

Munchbar did everything right. The staff, the menu, and the food were all on point.

Burger Review : A massive burger/meal at a reasonable price. A great experience and high-quality food at Munchbar.

Rating...4 Bites

 

Ketchup Premium Burger Bar--Las Vegas, NV

3663 Las Vegas Blvd
at Planet Hollywood
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-463-4433 
website 

This from the Ketchup site:  "....Ketchup Premium Burger Bar was found (sic) by people, just like you, who LOVE burgers. When we opened our doors, we had one goal in mind: Fair prices, fresh ingredients, and fine burgers. We didn’t just want a place where customers could come to grab a quick bite, we wanted a place where customers would be happy to come back time and time again. We decided to only use the freshest ingredients, including our never frozen certified angus beef patties, and our fresh baked buns delivered daily from our local bakery. We get it, we’re burger people too, and we hope you like our food just as much as we do..." 


The owners of Blondie's Sports Bar, also at Planet Hollywood, had recently opened up a burger joint in the same complex as Gordon Ramsay's outstanding BurGR. This was ballsy, and Happy Meal and I wanted to investigate. We ordered a couple of basic 1/2 pound cheeseburgers ($10) at the counter. Our wait was a scant 4 minutes until our burgers arrived at our table. Now, I love the burger at BurGR.....BUT....sometimes I don't want to wait 45 minutes for a table and then 45 minutes more for a burger at a relatively high cost. 

The Burger Breakdown...

The Beef: The 8-ounce beef patty at Ketchup Premium Burger Bar was Certified Angus Beef. I had the familiar beefiness of Chuck, but the GM assured me that it was not. That said the cuts of beef were a mystery. The thick, uniformly round patty was a traditional 80:20 lean to fat ratio. The flavor was all beef. This was a straight-forward burger in terms of flavor. The burger was juicy and not oily. The mouth feel was firm and just chewy enough to outlast the brioche bun.

The Seasoning: There was a faint dusting of salt. This was probably a growing pains oversight--more seasoning would have done the trick

The Sear: The edges of my burger patty picked up a nice sear, but the patty's center contracted as it cooked, so the center lacked a sear. A retooling of the patty or a light griddle weight would have rectified this.

The Preparation: The burgers are Ketchup Premium Burger Bar were cooked Medium and FAST on a gas-fired, stainless steel flat-top. The patties were formed with medium pressure. The grind was medium-coarse. The quality of the ingredients was high--the vegetables were especially fresh and ripe. The GM of Ketchup took some time to speak with me, and his focus on quality was clear.

The Cheese: Our cheeseburgers were topped with a thin slice of mild Cheddar. The cheese was a silent passenger. A burger that thick and heavy needed a far bolder cheese to make a noticeable and meaningful contribution.

The Bun: The brioche bun was barely toasted, but it was fresh, moist, and buttery. The bite was tender but just firm enough to stand up to the thick beef patty.

The Meat To Bun Ratio: This was perfect.

The Toppings: There were a variety of ketchups: Balsamic, Sriracha, Hickory, and standard. The Sriracha Ketchup was great. The tomato slices were thick, ripe, and hearty. The Romaine lettuce was perfect. 

The Fries: These were of the peel-on, par-cooked, frozen, bagged, and delivered in variety, but they were just fine. The fries were perfectly seasoned, well-browned, and crisp.

The Value: $10 for a 1/2 pound cheeseburger that arrived with blinding speed was just fine. Happy Meal and I were both happy with our meals.

Ketchup Premium Burger Bar was up against an 800-pound culinary gorilla. The price point combined with the speed of service made them a viable alternative for those craving a burger but lacking the foresight to factor in 1.5 hours from asking for a table to sinking teeth into meat, bun, and cheese.

Burger Review : High quality ingredients served at a fair price with great haste. The Oreo shake was amazing.

Rating...4 Bites (3.5 rounded up)